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520 I 

M18 

1 885 ! 

— ^r&T RUCTION 



BOOK 



Drafting and Cutting 



DRESSES, BASQUES, SACKS, COATS, &C. 



Garment Drafting Machine, 



AS IXrnSTED AXD PATESTKll 



a. Mcdowell. 



The McDowell Garment Drafting Machine Co. 



No. 6 West 14th Street, New York. U. S. A. 



SEVENTH EDITION. 



/> 



%**W0. 



SRW YORK: 

MERCANTILE PRINTING k STATIONER? CO., T09 BROADWAY, N. T. 

1885. 



Sir\t0 to f)ife#nt&keift 



BASTING AND FINISHING. 



One reason why foreign dresses are so much admired is the splendid 
manner in which they are finished. 

Proper hasting is a very important matter, for if the lining and the 
Hillside, although cut properly, are not united correctly the result will not 
be such as was intended. 

Basting then is the foundation of making, and its importance should be 
generally appreciated in this country. Don't be afraid of using too many 

stitches. 



FIRST ISASTE TAB SEPARATE PIECES OF LINING TO THE OUTSIDE. 

Place the material on the table with the wrong side up, with the wrinkles 
all nicely smoothed out; then lay the lining of the front on the goods and 
baste on the sewing lines, using a stitch about one inch long. Baste down 
the fold line evenly to two inches below th*e point of the bust, from this 
point to the waist full the lining in about one quarter of an inch. From 
the waist line down baste evenly. When basting around the darts, full the 
lining from one inch below the top of the darts to the waist line about one- 
quarter of an inch ; continue from the waist down plain. 

The goods and the lining are basted evenly under the arm, from the 
arm-hole down, except for the three inches just above the waist, the lining 
is to be fulled a little. The lining on the shoulder is fulled slightly. Lay 
the lining of the back and the side body properly on the material and baste 
in the sewing lines evenly except for the three inches above the waist line; 
the lining is to be slightly fulled in these three inches, say one-quarter inch. 
Below the waist baste evenly. 



-' 



> 



Hints to Dressmakers. 



NEXT BASTE THE SEAMS. 

Begin one quarter of an inch above the top of the front darts and baste 
evenly to the waist line, and continue from there down. When the second 
dart slants very much, it will be necessary to full the edge next to the front 
slightly down as far as the waist. The hip dart is basted evenly from the 
armhole to the waist; from there down the edge next to the front is fulled 
slightly for three inches, then plain. In joining the side body to the back, 
begin at the armhole, baste evenly for two inches and then full the back 
slightly for the next three inches ; from there down baste evenly. Always 
hold the back towards you when basting. Baste the side seam evenly, 
beginning at the armhole. In joining the front and back at the shoulder, 
fuli the back and stretch the seam after basting. 

To prevent the armhole from stretching, use a strong thread or cord 
around it when basting. Having properly basted the garment, stitch the 
seam exactly on the sewing lines. This must be done very carefully. Press 
the front darts into shape by drawing them over the knee, then press all the 
seams and stay the edges, first trim slightly and then overseam the edges 
separately. For a better finish bind each edge inside with silk binding. 
All dresses should be finished with an inside belt, which must be fastened 
on each seam, thus relieving the goods of the waist strain. The casing for 
the whalebones in cheap dresses can be made out of the seams, but for good 
dresses it is best to press the seams open and then cover the whalebone with 
a piece of the lining, cut bias and nicely felled on, or with a piece of tape. 
The whalebone must be of good quality and thin at the ends. Clipping the 
seams is necessary, to have the goods lay smoothly. Never trim the shoul- 
der and side seams too closely. For fleshy figures, particularly those that 
break open the seams, cut the lining crosswise when the material will permit, 
that is have the selvedge top and bottom. Some good cutters always cut 
their linings this way, but the majority cut the lining lengthwise, the same 
as the outside. Never allow a customer to put her thumb into the armhole 
when fitting the dress, as she will thereby stretch the armholes and cause a 
fullness in the front of the arm very hard to remedy. 

Learn to make garments well, and induce your customers, if possible, to 
wear becoming styles and color. As a rule, rich trimming should accom- 
pany rich material, and colors should invariably harmonize. 

Study these points, and when seeking a position as forelady, or cutter 
and fitter, your value will be greatly enhanced. 

If you would become an expert, and we hope that such is your aim, you 
can command your own price. 

SOW To TSKif ^SfJ M^lif^, 

Remember that a perfect-fitting garment can only be produced by first 
securing a perfect measure. Before beginning to take a measure always 
place a belt of stiff material, two inches wide, tightly around the waist, and 
see that its lower edge is just at the bottom of the waist — not crowded 
down too much, nor pushed up by the skirts rolled on the band. Have 
the lower edge just at the natural waist. 



How to Measure. 



FIRST. — The neck measure is taken, 
(while standing at the back) just above 
the band of the dress, around the bare 
neck, snug, not loose. Do not allow any- 
thing for comfort; the machine does that 
This measure is shown at 1 on Fig. 1. 

SECOND.— The width of back is taken 
with the tape across the shoulder-blades, 
between the armholes, and is to be just the 
width you desire the garment to be when 
finished, as the machine allows for the 
seams. This measure is shown by the line 
from 2 to 3 on Fig. J. 

This measure can also be taken by using 
the square as shown on Fig. 4, from 2 1 to 
22. To use the square, place its short 
end under the left arm, and slide up the 
gauge on the long part until it touches the 
body under the right arm. The figures 
on t lie square at the right or outer side of 
the gauge furthest from the body, give 
the correct measure. It is best to measure 
with the tape when you understand how. 
THIRD. — The underarm length is taken 
with the open hand resting on the hip, one 
inch below the belt, as shown in Fig. 2. 
Take the end of the tape between the 
thumb and first finger of the right hand, 
/,i i, and pass it under the arm with the second 

0-Jtl III l^l i J l\ 1~\\Y\^ joint of the thumb touching the arm, 

keeping the thumb and finger straight 
through, neither pointing up nor down. 
Then with the left hand bring the tape to the lower edge of the belt. Hold 
it therewith the left hand and drawback the right hand, and if the knuckles 
just touch the arm, with the tape stretched, it will give the correct measure. 
This measure is shown on Fig 2, from 12 to 13. Always measure both sides. 
You can use the square in testing this measure as shown in Fig. 5, from 
25 to 20. Care must be used not to use too long a measure, by pressing the 
gauge into the arm. It is best to learn to use the tape. 

Place the short part of the square upon the hip at the lower edge of the 
belt, with the long part running straight up, touching the back of the arm at 
the shoulder. Then slide up the gauge on the long part until it just touches 
the arm close to the body. Dont let the thin edge crowd up into the arms. 
The figures on the long arm of the square (on the side of the gauge which 
touches the arm), will give the correct measure. 

FOURTH. — TIk h_ ,,<//// of the back is obtained by measuring from a point 
,,,,, inch above the prominent bone in the back of the neck, to the lower 
edge of the belt, or below the edge of the belt when you desire to extend 
the waist for hollow backs, as shown in Fig. 3, from 14 to 15. 




How to Measure. 



CAUTION. — When the back is hollow and you wish to extend the waist 
at this point, continue the measure below the belt the desired length, and 
mark in the measure book the full length required, also mark opposite the 
next to the last question, the £, i, or 1 inch, as the case may be, that the 

waist line at the centre of the back is lower 
than the hips. When the belt goes about straight 
around this is simply the distance below the 
belt you wish the waist line to be. 

When the belt is high in front and low in the 
back, then you had better place the tape straight 
across from one hip to the other. Notice just 
how much the waist line in the centre of the 
back is lower than at the hips. This is the 
amount to be marked in next to the last question 
in the measure book. This extension of the 
back below the lower edge of the belt is pro- 
vided for when setting the machine ; full in- 
structions for which are given in the instruction 
book, under the head of " Explanation for 
changes on the Machine," page 

Another way for measuring the length of 
back, well adapted for use in the Drafting 
Machine, and especially for irregular forms, but 
seldom used, is as follows: 

First, when measuring the width of back with 

the square, as shown in Fig. 4, with a piece of 

tailors' chalk, make a mark on the centre of the 

back just at the upper edge of the square. Then 

measure from the point of the neck down to this 

mark for the upper part of the back, and from 

the mark down to lower edge of belt for the 

lower part of the back, placing the figures for 

each part in the measure book, for which you 

will see separate spaces provided. The square 

Fig, 2. should always be straight across the back, with 

the short piece close up under the arm and straight through, pointing neither 

up nor down, when you make the chalk mark. 




FIFTH. — The armhole is measured at the shoulder, where the sleeve is to 
join the body. Have the hand resting on the hip and measure the arm 
rather tight, as the armhole gets larger while making up. The place to 
measure is shown on Fig. 1, at 27. 



SIXTH. — The length of shoulder is measured from the neck to the arm 
hole, as shown on Fig. 4, from 28 to 29. It is measured just back of the 
shoulder on the shoulder seam. The machine allows for the seam. It is 
not necessary to take this measure unless the shoulder is very long or short, 
as we can get the correct length when we set the back of the machine. It 
is useful for a fleshy figure, but not necessary. 



How to Measure. 



SEVENTH. — The length of front: Place the end of the tape line at the 
top of the breast- ho:: e at the lower part of the neck, and measure down to 
the lower edge of the belt at the waist, as shown in Fig. 2, from 7 to S. 
This will give a dress of medium height at the neck. If you desire it to 
he higher than medium you should place the end of the tape a little higher 
than the top of the breast-bone, and use a very tight neck measure. 
' CAUTION. — Never measure below the lower edge of the belt for the 
front. When you desire to extend the front below the belt, it must be 
done by changing the machine after it lias first been properly set at the 
correct measure as taken. 

Instructions for shortening or lengthening the front for peculiar figures 
are given under the head of " Explanations for Changing the Machine," 
page 

EIGHTH.— Height of front darts: The height of the darts is obtained 
by measuring from a little below the point of the bust to the lower edge of 
the belt, a< shown in Fig. 2, from 10 to 11. Measure for the first dart 
only, being careful not to start too high up. Darts should be measured too 
short rather than too long. 

NINTH. — The bust measure is taken 
over the fullest part of the bust, not above 
it, close up under the arms and across the 
shoulder blades, keeping np a little on 
the back, as shown in front in Fig. 2, and 
at back in Fig. ], at 4. It is best to take 
this measure while standing at the back, 
and always ascertain whether the same or 
a corset of a similar bust formation is to 
be worn with the new garments. 

TENTH. — The waist measure is taken 
with the belt removed and medium tight, 
as shown in Fig. 1, at 5. Stand at the 
back while taking this measure. When 
taken over the belt, one inch must be de- 
ducted for the correct measure. 

ELEVENTH. — The hip measure is ta- 
ken five inches below the waist, around 
over the hips, rather loosely, as shown in 
Fig. 1 at 0. The quantity of clothing and 
drapery must be considered when taking 
this measure. It is best taken when 
standing at the back. 

TWELFTH.— Size of front darts is ob- 
tained by subtracting the waist measure 
from the bust measure, thus: bust, 36, 
waist, 24; difference, 12, to go in the 
front darts. 12 is a medium size for front 
darts. When setting the machine, use 
two sizes less for princess or polonaise. 
For fuller information about darts see 
page 




Fig 



How to Measure. 



THIRTEENTH.— The size of hip. The hip dart for princess, polonaise 
and coats is graded as follows: Very small, 6; small, 8; medium, 9; large j 
10; and very large, 12. 

When using the sizes, you notice the hip, and place such a figure in the 
measure-book as indicates the size, or better still, measure with the square 
as follows: 

TO MEASURE THE HIP DART WITH THE SQUARE, take the 
square in the left hand, with the short arm and gauge hanging down, and 
place the end of the»long arm marked A, against the belt, having the lower 
edge of the square even with the lower edge of the belt. Then move the 
gauge up towards the body until its lower end or point just touches the 
hip slightly. The figures at the edge of the gauge nearest the body, on the 
hip dart scale, is the correct size. The position of the square when taking 
this measure is straight out from the body as shown in Fig. 4, at 23 and 
24. Only used for princess, polonaise and coats. 

FOURTEENTH— The sleeve. The length is taken with the arm raised 
to a horizontal position and bent at a right angle, measuring from the cen- 
tre of the back to the elbow for one measure, and to the prominent bone of 
the wrist for the full length of the sleeve, as shown in Fig. 3, from 17 to 18 
and 17 to 19. One-half the width of the back is to be deducted from each 
measure. 



For tight sleeves, measure around the 
upper part of the arm half way between 
the elbow and the shoulder as shown in 
Fig. 3 at 20, and also measure around the 
arm at the elbow and over the hand and 
thumb. Have the fingers open - and the 
thumb closed to the palm of the hand. 

Sleeve length to elbow 

To wrist 

Around the arm, upper part .. 

Around at the Elbow 

Around at the Hand 

FIFTEENTH.- The length of skirt is 
measured from the lower edge of the belt 
to the bottom of the skirt at front, side 
and back, as shown in Fig. 2, from 8 to 9 
and Fig. 3, from 15 to 16. 

Length of skirt: 

Front 

Side 

Back 




Fig. 4. 



How to Measure. 



QU'*$TioXg To 8^ &K$WiJSfaf> ijyf Tft^ M^agi/^ Sook. 




At wliat point above the waist is the back 
the fullest ? Is it £, jj or £ the way up between 
tlie waist and the neck ? 

Answer 

Is the back very round or nearly straight? 
Answer 

Is the back hollow at the point where the 
sleeve joins the body? and will it need to be 
fitted or padded at that point? At the top of 
circle of the back ? 

Answer 

Is the back hollow or lower than the waist at 
the hips ? If so, how much, $ or % inch ? 

Answer 

Do you. wish the back extended down, or do 
you wish to fill up to the belt with a bustle ? 

Answer 

Is the stomach high ? That is does the belt 
slant up in front, instead of going straight 
around the body ? 

Is the stomach small, medium or large ? 

Answer 

If one shoulder or hip is higher or larger than 
the other, please notice it ; also any other pe- 
culiarity of the figure. 

Answer 



When taking the measure for a garment, strive for exactness, and always 
see whether the waist line is straight around, or if low on the back, how 
much. 



When using the Square in taking measures, have the gauge placed upon 
the long arm so that it will be on the same side as the short arm of the 
square. 

When using the square and gauge, hold the square in the left hand, and 
move the gauge with the right hand, placing the thumb partially upon the 
gauge and partially upon the square, so as to prevent its moving until you 
have read the measure from the square. 

For marking all straight lines, remove the gauge and use the square. 



Hints to Dressmakers. 



The best result is always attained when the lower edge of the belt is at 
the natural waist. If you wish to lengthen the waist, crowd the belt down, 
and this gives an increased underarm length. If you wish to shorten the 
waist, place the lower edge of the belt at the point where you wish the waist 
to terminate. Or, in other words, for a long waist use a long underarm 
measure, and for a short waist use a short underarm measure. 



ftf^ULTg 0*< 8®f> M38SIJW3 ®X© glW*$TiOtfg tfofl 
^Mr^YlKc^ T8r} f>WCTg 8fU£iXa 



RE, 



REMEMBER THAT AN OUNCE OF PREVENTION IS WORTH A POUND OF <U 
THEREFORE BE CAREFUL TO MEASURE CORRECTLY. 

When the bust measure is too large there will be a fullness under the arms 
or in the back. Take up at the side seam. 

Wlien the bust measure is too tight, add goods at the side seam. If the 
buttonholes are not made add some goods down the front line, and some- 
times in the centre seam of the back. 

When the back measure is too icicle, take up the centre seam of the back 
and add to the front down the front line, or if the buttonholes are made 
you might trim out the armholes at the back a trifle, and increase the size 
of the sleeve at the armhole accordingly. 

When the back measure is too narroio, the front will be wide and there 
will be fullness in front of the arms. Give what goods you can in the 
centre seam of the back. Take up the front on the fold line, and trim 
the armholes in front. 

When the armhole measure is too large there will be fullness back of the 
arm. Take up at the shoulder seam back of the arm. 

When the armhole measure is too tight it will bind over the arm at the 
shoulder, and draw the goods up from the hip, making it short at this 
point. Let out the shoulder seam back of the arm. 

When the length of back measure is too long the garment will be too high 
back of the neck, and wrinkle across the back. Take up the shoulder seams 
and trim the neck. 

See page 13 when underarm measure is too short. 

When the length of back measure is too short the garment will bind each 
side of the neck and be short at the waist on the back. Loosen the shoulder 
seams and drop the back down to its place. This will make it low at the 
back of the neck. Piece the lining, and if the goods are cut, hide the 
piecing by trimming, or with fancy collar. 

When the front measure is too long it will be too high in front at the neck, 
and too loose on the shoulders at the neck. Take up the shoulder seams 
and cut out the neck and front. 

See when the underarm length is too short. 



Hints to Dressmakers. 



When the neck measure is too large \t also will cause a looseness on llic 
shoulder near the neck. Take up the shoulder seam. 



When the front measure is too short the garment will he low in front of 
I lie nook and he tisjht or bind on either side thereof. Loosen the shoulder 



When the neck measure is too tight it also will hind back of the neck, bot 
will not he low in front. Loosen the shoulder seams. 

When the underarm measure is too long the garment will be too low at the 
neek, light on the shoulders near the neck and extended down at the waist 
so as to cause wrinkles. Loosen the shoulder seams and draw the garment 
up to its place. Fit on the shoulders, and trim out the armhole under the 
arm. 



When the underarm measure is too short the garment will be too high at 
(lie neck and short waisted. Loosen the shoulder seams, and drop down 
until right at the waist. 

When the waist measure is too large the back will 1 loose. Take up Llic 
side seam. 

When tin waist measure is too tight add goods at the side seam. 

Don't mistake tin hip dart orimderarm seamfortlu sia\ seam in making 

itlti rations. 



When the hip measure is too tight the skirl will ride up and wrinkle at the 
waist. Add goods at the side seam, and if more are required, at the fold 
line in front, and at the centre seam of the back. 

//' the hip dart is too small it also will cause the skirt to ride up and 
wrinkle at the waist. Add goods at the side seam, or take up the hip dart, 
at waist if possible. 

Three things cause wrinkles at the waist, the underarm length being loo 
long, the bip dart being too small, or the skirt measure over the hips too 
tight. Ascertain which of these causes the difficulty, and remedy as sug- 
gested. The safest course while learning, is to take a loose hip measure. 

Bad basting may cause wrinkles anywhere in a garment. In fact the 
most perfect garment can be so distorted by putting it together that it will 
be spoiled. Learn to baste. See Hints to Dressmakers. 



to Sample Measure. 



This Measure is used foe Practice throdghout the Book 

Inches. 

Neck - - 13 

Width of back -- - - - 13 

Length of back — .- 16^ 

Underarm Length ._ - — 8 

Armhole — -15 

Shoulder Length .. - 5f 

Front Length - 13$ 

Front dart height ., 5 

Bust measure - 31 

Waist measure . — ...- 24 

Hip measure - --.- •-- 41 

Size of front darts 12 

Size of hip _ 9 

Length of skirt, front 38 

" " side __ ---38+ 

" " back 39" 

Sleeve length to elbow, 18$; to wrist, 27$; less one-half width of back, 
0$ inches; leaves length of sleeve to elbow, 12; and to wrist, 21. 

Sleeve width at upper arm, 12; at elbow, 11$; at wrist, 8. 

Always answer the following questions in your measure book, as certain 
changes in drafting depend on them. 

Is the back round or hollow ? If so, how far above the waist ? 

Do the shoulder points drop to the front? That is, must you fit back of 
the arm, where the sleeve joins the back, or at the top of the side seam ?. . 

Is the waist-line in the centre of the back lower than at the hips, and if 
so, how much ? \, or $ inch ? 

Is the stomach high ? If so, how much ? \, or $ inch ?. 

Apply the several measures taken each to the part arranged for it. On 
the machine neareach scale you will find figures in [ ] which tell you which 
part of the machine is to be fixed first, second and so on. Near the figure 
in the brackets [ ] you will find the name of the measure you are to get 
from the measure book and use for that particular scale. 

Thus at the armhole part of the back you will find "[1st]," and under it 
the word "Armhole." This means that you are to set this part first, ac- 
cording to the armhole measure. Next across the back you will find 
"[2d] width of back," which means that this is the second part to fix, and 
is to be set at the width of back, and so on. 

ALWAYS SET THE MACHINE IN THE FOLLOWING ORDER: 

First, set the BACK-PIECE. 

Second, set the SIDE-PIECE. 

Third, set the UNDERARM-PIECE. 

Fourth, set the FRONT-PIECE. 



Setting the Machine. 



i l 



The figures on cuts No. 6, 8, 10 and 12, represent the order in which the 
machine is to be arranged. Looking at cut 6, the Back, we find (1) at the 
armhole; this indicates that this is the first part of the back to be set. 
We find in our measure for practice that the armhole is (15), so we set this 
part of the machine at (15). 

Next set the part marked (2) which is the width of back, to the measure 
given which is (13), and then set the parts marked 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8, in 
order named to their several measures, as given. 

In the following instructions, the figures on the left side correspond with 
the figures on the cut, and those in brackets [ ] Stamped on the machine, 
represent the order of setting the different parts of the machine, and fig- 
ures on the right of the instructions are taken from the sample measure 
and these measures are to be found in the scales on the machine. 



Tftr} 8SCK. 



SAMPLE. 
MEASURE 




Fig. G. 



1st. Set 1, (see Fig. 0), the armhole to the 

measure (15) 

You will find two places to fix the 
arm-hole on the back, the upper 
shown by A, in Fig. 0, and the lower 
by B. Both are set at the armhole 
size, in this case 15, put the centre 
of the screw on the number. Have 
this part of the armhole, A B, 
straight up or parallel with 4, the 
centre line of the back for a med- 
ium length of shoulder. 
2nd. Set 2, the width of back, to the measure (18) 
3rd. Set 3, the lower part of length of back, 

to the underarm length . (8) 

4lh. Set 4, the upper part of length of back 
by simply adding enough on the 
upper part to what you have used 
on the lower part to complete the 
back length. Thus, length of back 
1G£ ; used for lower part of back 
length 8, add for upper part 84, to 

make the 16i for full length (8±) 

5th. Set 5, the neck, to neck measure (13) 

6th. Set 6, the shoulder, so as to bring the 
point of the armhole marked A on 
the cut straight up over the point 
marked B, for medium style. You 
can make the shoulder long or short 
by moving point A, Fig. G, to the 
right or left (5$ 



Setting the Machine. 




7th. Set 7, the back of the waist, according 

to fashion, wide or narrow. Place 

the centre of screw at size 3 for 

medium or a 24 waist - (•*) 

8th. Set 8, the skirt of back by placing the 

centre of screw at the same figure 

that you used at the waist above. 

That is, if you set at 3 at the waist, 

also set at 3 for-the skirt ' (3) 

To Mark the Bach. — Mark outside for cutting, and 
inside for the sewing lines, and at the lower edge of 
cross-piece at the waist for the waist line. To get the 
hollow of the back, mark a line from the wide seam 
line at waist line, up to the fullest part of the back, 
generally | of the distance from the waist to the neck, 
opposite B, Fig. 6, then gradually deepening the 
seam from that point down to the waist. This will 
give us Fig. 7. 

CAUTION. — Number 3, or the lower part of the 
back length, is always set at the underarm length 
where the waist line is straight around. But when 
the waist line is lower in the centre of the back than 
it is at the hips, then we must add to the underarm 
length for No. 3 on the machine just as much as the waist line drops in the 
centre of the back. Thus, if the waist line drops ■£ an inch on the back, 
then we add the £ inch to the underarm length. In this case the under- 
arm length is 8, to which we add the £ inch making 8£ for the lower length 
of back. If the back is 1G^ long and the lower part 8i the upper part is 
7|, this makes the back length correct. 

It is very important to learn just how much the waist line is lower in the 
centre of the back than at the hips, as it has to do with the fit on the 
shoulder. 

T^ #i©^ SoDy. 

That part of the side body which joins the bade is set fir.tt, 

1st. Set 1. (See Fig. 8), the circle of side body, at 
the same figures as you find on the circle 
of the back designated by figure 9, on cut 

6, diagram of back, in this case, it is (1 1 i) 

Set 2, the armhole part by placing the centre 

of the screw on the armhole size. .. .- (15) 

Set 3, the side seam, by the underarm length (8) 

Set 4, the waist, at the waist measure, less 
the number of sizes used on the back at 
the waist. Thus: waist 24, less 3 used in 
the back, leaves 21, which is the number 
to use here ._ (21) 

Fig. 8 




Setting the Machine. 



'3 



Remember the number of fashion sizes used on the 
back at the waist, must come off the side body at ibe 
waist. 

5th. Set 5, the skirt, at the hip measure, less the 
number of sizes used in the skirt on the 
back. Thus: hip measure 41, less 3, the 
number used on the back, leaves 38 (08) 

To Murk the Sith Body. — Mark outside for cutting, 
and inside for sewing lines, and at the lower side of 
cross-piece at waist for the waistline. We then get 
Fig. 9. 




CAUTION. — Number 3, Fig. 8, is set at the underarm measure except 
when you extend No. 3 on Fig. ti. When you add .1 inch to the lower part 
of back length, add half as much to No. 3 on the side body. That is, the 
circles of the side body which joins the back are always set at the same 
figures as the circles of the back, but the part of the side body which joins 
ihe underarm piece is set at the underarm length, except when you add to 
ihe lower part of ihe back length on account of hollow back, then add only 
half as much to No. 3; this part of the side body. 




Fig. IO. 



TS3 UKfKi^f^i vitct- m s £S. 

Set the part of the underarm piece which 
joins the side body first. See Fig 10. 

1st. Set 1, the side seam to the underarm 

measure, in this case (< s ) 

2nd. Set 2, the width at the top or armhole, 

at the bust measure (37) 

3rd. Set 3, at the waist measure . (24) 

4ih. Set 4, the skirt at the hip measure ... (41) 

llemember, you are not to take off any sizes at the 
waist and skirt on the underarm piece, as you did on 
the side body. That is only done on the side body to 
offset the changes on the back to follow fashion. 

To Mark the Underarm J J iece. — Mark the pieces run- 
ning up and down outside and inside, across the top 



14 



Setting the Machine. 






and across on the lower edge at the waist line. The 
outside lines are the cutting lines, the inside sewing 
lines, as shown in Fig. 11. 

CAUTION. — In setting this part of the machine you 
will find that whenever the waist measure comes within 
8 inches or less of being as large as the bust measure, 
that the piece will be much larger at the waist than 
will look well. This you can correct by taking off 3 
sizes at the waist at No. 3 and adding the same amount 
on the front at the waist at No. 14, Fig. 12. Whenever 
this piece gets wider or narrower at the waist than at 
the top, it only follows the shape of the customer and 
gives just the shape required to fit. So when we add 
to the front at the waist what we take off here at 
the waist, we keep the same amount of goods. 

y<&% fWT. 

Always set that part of the front which joins the underarm 




1st. 

2nd. 

3rd. 



4th. 
5th. 

6 th. 

7 th. 

8 th. 



9th. 



10th 



11 tli. 



12 th. 



piece first. See Fig 12. 

Set 1, the side seam, at the underarm length 

Set 2, the length of front, lower part, at underarm length . 

Set 3, the length of front upper part, by adding enough to 

the amount used in the lower part to complete the length 

of front. Thus: length of front 13£, used for the lower 

part 8, add 5 £ for upper to make full length 

Set 4, the neck, at measure 

Set 5, the shoulder, to same figure as indicated on the 

shoulder of the back 

Set 6, the armhole, upper part, at the measure - 

Is always set. 
Set 8, the width of front, to the bust measure, less 
width of back. Thus: bust measure. 37, less 13, 

width of hack, leaves 24 for width of front. 

This is generally set 1 size less for small bust, 2 for 
medium, and 3 for very large, to make the curved 
front. 
Set 9, top of first dart, at same figure as width of 
front above. When width of front is 24 put top of 
1st dart at 24. This figure gives you a medium 
width, but you can vary the width according to taste 
Set 10, top of second dart, at the same figure as 
width of front. When front width is 24 put top 

of second dart at 

Set 11, height of dart, at medium, or according to 

measure . 

Set 12, size of front darts at waist, at 12 for medium, 

or at size in measure book 

See how to get the size of darts on page 



(8) 
(8) 



(H) 

(13) 

(51) 

(15) 



(24) 



(24) 

(24) 

(5) 
(12) 



Drafting the Garment. 



15 




Fig. 12. 

13th. Set'13, so as to make the second dart a little larger 
than the first, hetween the figures 4 and 5 for 
medium, unless otherwise desired (4 to 5) 

14th. Set 14, the waist size, at the waist measure, fasten 

the centre of screw on the size (24) 



TO ©SJStfx" tW< C^M'iWT Sf^aiX WlTft TfVr} tfijOtfT. 

To Mark the Front. 

Have the front edge of the machiue back from the edge of the paper or 
lining 1^ inches, and the waist line the distance from the bottom that is 
desired for the length of the skirt. Then begin at the waist line and draw 
a line up along the edge of the machine to the neck. This gives the fold 
line. 

Then follow the edge and mark around the outside for the neck, shoulder, 
it n ii hole and underarm seam, down to the waist line. Then mark the inner 
edge of the shoulder and the inner edge of the underarm seam for sewing 
lines. Then mark from underarm seam along the lower edge of the ma- 
chine 10 the front, for the waist line. 

Then mark the dart nearest the front, so as to bring it to a point at (he 
top. Then mark the second dart same as the first. Mark on the inside 
edge only of the dart pieces for sewing lines. 

These dart marks are the sewing lines. The cutting lines are the straight 
lines at D and F, up through the centre. See Fig. 12, 



i6 



Drafting the Garment. 



To add the skirt or continue the front below the waist line: First, ex- 
tend the fold or front line, 15, straight down to the bottom of the basque; 
then draw line 16 from D, at centre of first dart at waist line straight down 
or with the grain of the lining to the bottom of the basque at E. Mark 
lines 18 and 19 so as to extend the dart not from above the waist line but 
from the waist line down to the bottom of basque, so as to have the lines 
18 and 19 one-third of an inch from line 16 at E. This is allowed for the 
seam. Mark the second dart same as first, by first making line 17 from F 
in the centre of the second dart straight down to H. Then mark lines 20 
and 21, as shown on the diagram and figure 12. 

To get the proper spring for line 22, find the width of the front skirt as 
given in the skirt table for front, opposite the hip measure on page ; 
measure on the hip line (which is five niches below the waist line) from N, 
on line 15, to O, on line 22, the length given in table, ahuays omitting the 
spaces occupied by the darts. Measure this width with the tape, begin- 
ing at N, on line 15, measure to line 18, then move the tape along to line 
I 9, and measure to line 20, again move over to 2 1 and continue the measure 
to line 22, and complete this part of the hip measure for the front, which 

for 41 hip measure is 9£. This gives the 
correct position for point 0. If the skirt 
table is not handy, take and divide the hip 
measure by 4, and then take off 1 inch, the 
remainder is the width for the front skirt 
without darts or seams. 

Then, using the outer edge of the wide 
piece of the side body, place the point of 
the wide piece of side body at the end of 
waist line, at 14, Fig. 12, with the outer 
edge passing through point at O, and 
mark along this edge from the waist line 
to bottom of basque, and this will give 
line 22. Then move to the right \ inch 
and mark along the same edge for cutting 
line. 

The dotted line R, in Fig. 13, shows 
the curve or swell front. 







S SSl^ TlGj&T f^oKt'. 

To draft a half tight front set the machine the same as for the regular 
three dart front, and mark all parts the same, except the two front darts, 
which are not to be marked, and are not to be taken out. Leaving the goods 
in at this point gives the half tight front. 



Skirt Taele. 



17 



You need not add anything to the waist size as you get looseness enough 
by not taking out the two front darts. 

Loose sacques and wrappers can be made on this plan. 

& TSW-QUM^fi VI0BT ^ojyf¥. 

To make a three-quarter tight front set the machine the same as for the 
regular two dart front, as instructed on page 15, and mark the same as 
there instructed, except the two front darts. Then move the machine to 
the left so that the second dart is half way between the hip dart and the 
fold line, or between where the first and second darts would be if marked. 
Then mark the second dart. The position of this dart is shown by the 
dotted line on Fig. 13. This dart is extended below the waist as usual. 

Skirt Bule for Front of Basques, &c„ 5 Inches below the Waist Line. 



FIND IN THIS COLUMN 
THE HIP MEASURE. 

35 777 

36 

37 

38 

39 

40 

41... 

42 

43 

44 - 

46 

48 

47 

48 



WIDTH OF FRONT 

WHEN FINISHED. SHAMS 

AND DARTS NOT INCLUDED. 



■ 7f- 
. 8 . 

■ 8i. 
• H- 
. 8f 

. 9 . 
. 9±. 
. 9*. 
. 9*. 
.10 . 
.10* 
.10*. 
10J. 

11 . 



FIND IN THIS COLUMN 
THE HIP MEA8CRE. 



49. 
50. 

51. 



52. 
53. 
54. 
55. 
56. 
57. 
58. 
59. 
60. 
62. 
64 



WIUTH OF FRONT 

WHEN FINISHED. SEAMS 

AND DARTS NOT INCLUDED. 



....ni. 
....iii. 

....ii4- 

12 . 

....12*. 
....12i. 
....122. 

13 . 

....13i. 

13*. 

....134. 

14 . 

....14*. 
15 _ 



To Extend the Back Below the Belt for Hollow Backs. 

The lower part of length of back, scale 3, in Fig. 6, is extended down 
one-quarter or one-half inch, according to the memoranda made in the 
measure book at the time of taking the measure in answer to the question, 
"Is the back hollow below the belt on the hip?" Just as much as you 
have decided that the waist line in the centre of the back is lower than at 
the hips, just that much you are to add to the underarm length for lower 
part of back length on scale, 3 Fig. 6, and as much as you add on scale 3 
you take off scale 4 for the upper back length, so as to keep the back 
length correct. Uon't forget when the belt is low on the back, or the 
waist line slopes down, to notice how much lower it is than at the hipi, 
and make the amount *, *, 1 inch, as it may be, for this is needed to keep 
the correct slope of shoulder. 

To Lengthen the Waist in Front. 

After the machine is all set extend the lower plate of the front (scale 2, 
Fig. 12) the amount desired, say one-half inch. This is used in crowding 
the waist down in front. 

To Shorten the Waist in Front for a High Stomach. 

Take off one-quarter or one-half inch from scale 2, at bottom of machine 
in front Fig. 12, and add the same amount to scale 3, at the top, thus pre- 
serving the correct length of front. 



18 Darts. 

To Change the Slope of the Shoulder in the Front. 

When the length of back is very short and the length of front very long, 
the front shoulder will slant on the machine very much. To correct this 
you can add \ an inch or more to the lower scale on the front length, and 
take it off the upper. This will keep the length of the front the same and 
bring the shoulder down some at the neck. When you make this change 
don't forget to set the height of dart to the measure. 

To liaise the Shoulder Seam at the Arm-hole. 

To give a square shouldered back, add \ or \ inch to the armhole of the 
back, and take off the front armhole the same amount. 
When the Shoulder Blade is Prominent, and there is a Hollow 
Place Back of the arm that Needs Fitting. 

Draft the side body as usual, stand the pencil along the circles 3 inches 
from the armhole, then with the pencil as a pivot move the armhole part 
down i inch. This makes the armhole part that much narrower and 
lengthens the circles £ inch so they will be the same length as the back cir- 
cles, when this is required you so mark, in the measure book. 

The Drafting Machine enables us to use all systems of darts. You can 
use the old rule of taking out in the front darts the difference between the 
waist and bust measures. Thus, bust 37, waist 24, difference 13, to come 
out in front darts. As we always use a curve front, we use 1 size less, 
making the front darts 12. To get rid of the fullness at the bottom of the 
front darts in princess and polonaise, we use 2 sizes less in the front darts. 
The rule just given is generally correct, but when the bust is large and the 
stomach small, this rule gives too much goods below the waist line in princess 
and polonaise, and when the stomach is large and the bust small, it fails to 
give enough goods over the stomach. Now as our fullness for the bust 
does not depend entirely on the darts, we vary them to suit the stomach. 
When the stomach is larger than the bust, in proportion we add a size or 
two to the darts, and when the stomach is very small and the bust large, 
we take off one or two sizes in the darts, this enables us to have the proper 
fullness at the bottom of the front darts in polonaise and princess. 

When the waist and stomach are large and both project nearly the same, 
small darts are needed, when the waist is small and the stomach large, 
there is more spring out from the waist, and large darts are needed to give 
the proper amount of goods. When the stomach is straight down, use 10 
If it projects out from the waist the usual amount use 12, which is medium 
When more than medium 13. When very large, projecting very far 14. 

The tops of the front darts can be arranged to suit the prevailing style, 
or the individual taste of the customer. Generally they are set at the same 
figures as width of front, found by taking the width of the back from the 
bust measure. Thus, 37 bust, 13 width of back, leaves 24 for width of- 
front ; set tops of 1st and 2d darts' at 24. They can, however, be drafted 
in any position, as is explained in detail in a following paragraph. 

How to Draft the Harts in Any Position. 

There are styles and figures which require the position of the darts to be 
changed from those given on the machine. For example : 

When the waist is over 28 inches, the first dart would be too near the 
front line, and the space between the first and second darts too small. To 



Changes. 



i0 



remedy this, set the machine regularly, as instructed on page 15, and draft 
as before, all except the darts. Then, if the front dart is too near the front 
line, move the machine to the right from ^ to -^ an inch, as desired. Mark 
the first dart, then move the machine i inch more to the right and mark 
the second dart. This places the first dart farther from the edge and the 
darts farther apart. By moving the machine you can make the darts 
higher or lower than the machine gives them, when you so desire. 

How to Leave the Bip Seam Out. 

Set the machine as directed on pages 11 and 15, for the regular basque 
mark the front, then place the underarm or hip seam of the underarm piece 
directly over the underarm or hip seam of the front, and mark the armhole 
and side seam. This style of basque generally stops at the waist and can 
be used with a belt. 

How to Change the Underarm Seam into a Hip Hart. 

Set the machine as directed On pages 11 and 15, for the regular basque 
mark the front and add a skirt six inches long, as directed on page 16, then 
place the under arm-piece about 3 inches to the right of the front so its 
waist line is on a line with the waist line of the front, that is, have about 3 
inch space between the underarm seam of the front and the underarm seam 
of the underarm piece. Mark the underarm-piece when in this position 
above the waist line and then below for skirt 6 or 7 inches. Mark both cut- 
ting and sewing lines. Have the sewing lines of the underarm or hip «eani 
of both the front and underarm piece come together 6 or 7 inches below the 
waist line. 

Now the exact distance to have the underarm piece from the front is 
controlled by the size of the hip as found by the square. If it is nine sizes 
then have the under arm-piece just 9 sizes to the right of the front. 

When the Bust Measure is Too Large for the Machine, 

, or, How to Draft the Front when Bust Measure, less the Width of 
Back, exceeds 33 inches, which is the limit of scale 8, Fig. 12, 
across the front. 
If the bust measure, is 51 and the width of back 16, this would leave for 
, width of front 35 inches. We open the front of the machine to 33 the limit 
1 of its scale, and this will leave two sizes less than the amount desired. 
These two sizes, equal to | inch (a size on this scale being J inch), we add 
I to the left of the fold line in front, opposite a point 1 inch above the top 
, of the front dart, at the fullest part of the bust. This changes the fold line 
J from a straight to a curved line, as shown by the dotted lino R on Fig. 13. 
In case you should ever have to draft a front exceeding 35 sizes in width, 
'then allow goods under the arm and at the side seams and a full inch extra 
Idown the front. This is obtained by moving the fold line of the machine 
iback to the right from the edge of the goods. 

When ami How to Use a Curved Front. 

i' A curved front is used for most figures, and is necessary on all those with 
large busts, and wherever there is a tendency for the goods to cross or lap 
in front at the neck. 

If you wish to use a curved front when setting the machine, take off 
'(from the measure for the width or front 1 size for small curve, thus, with 
the bust measure 37, width of back 13, leaves 24 for the width of front. 



20 



The Bias Under-Arm. 



Instead of setting the machine at 24, set it at 23, thus allowing one size to 
be added beyond the fold line for the curve. This is added at a point op- 
posite the fullest part of the bust, which is one inch above the top of the first 
dart. To draft this curve, draw a line from this point to the fold line at 
the neck and to the fold line at the waist. Curve these lines slightly, using 
the curve of the side body, or with the tracing wheel on the lining. 

Use 1 size for a small curve, 2 sizes for medium, and 3 sizes for very large. 

Whenever the front line curves more than one size, take a ■£ inch plait in 
the lining at R, Fig. 13, and extend it two inches to a point towards the 
top of first dart. This will give a broad look across the bust much like a 
corset. 

How to Make the Bias Cut Under the Arm. 

Set the machine as directed 
on pages 11 and 15. Add 3 
or 4 sizes to the second dart 
by moving A to the right to 
B as shown by Fig. 14, this 
moves C to the right to D, 
and makes the goods from the 
second dart to the under-arm 
seam more or less bias as de- 
sired. 

If the bust is 36 and the 
waist 24 the rule gives us 12 
difference to go into the front 
darts. Now to make the bias 
under arm we add 3 or 4 sizes 
to the 12 and put 15 in the 
darts. 

The skirt is added by ex- 
tending line 15 straight down. 
Line 16 is also straight down 
from D to £. Lines 18 and 19 
extend from the waist to £ of 
an inch each side of E. Line 
17 is extended from F to H 
Fig- I 4- straight down, the same as on 

page 15, Kig. 12 and line 20 and dotted line 21 from the waist to ■£ of an 
inch to each side of II. Line C, O, gets its spring from the front skirt 
table which gives distance from N to O, darts excepted ; this gives the skirt 
for a regular basque. Now to get the bias skirt we increase the second dart 
from A to B, then we move X to the right to Y, so the line Y B comes to 
the dart line IS 10 at the waist in a straight line or nearly so. This 
carries O over to Z, as the length from X to O is the same as from Y to Z 
extend line E I) on through Z with the regular curve. The amount of goods 
from N to Z is the same as from N to O. The bias cut under the arm is an 
old idea revived. The advantage in having the cloth on the bias is that the 
goods draw in nicely over the hip and above it reaching to point E at the 
arm-hole. 







Double Breasted Front. 



21 



The disadvantage is in the awkward look in striped goods, and in the 
fullness at the top of the second dart, at 10. With our plan of getting the 
size of the hip you ought to fit nicely without the bias under arm. As you 
can and must do this in Princess and Polanaise you can do it in basques as 
well. But some times the customer's mind is to be fitted or suited so follow 
fashion. 

How to Make a Double Breasted Front. 

After having arranged the machine for the regular front according to the 
required measure, as instructed on page 15 or on the diagram, simply place 
it on the lining, 2i or 3 inch back from the edge, to allow more goods for 
lap. 




Three inches back from the edge 
gives a wide lap. Place it nearer or 
further from the edge according to 
the width of the lap desired. In 
Fig. 15 on this page, the centre line 
is the dotted line C D, made by 
marking in the slot from the neck to 
the waist. The regular fold line A 
B and the line E F shows the width 
for double lap. 

Extend thu skirt as before, carry- 
ing the darts to the bottom so that 
there will be about f inch of goods 
there for seam. Remember that the 
hip measure is at/ways applied 5 inches 
below the waist line, as shown by 
dotted live V W, Fig. 15, and not 
W \ ut the bottom of tin basque. In ex- 
-1 tending the skirt below the 5 inches 
~\ have the underarm seam spring to 
"1 the right i inch for each inch below 
"1 the five. 
R 



One Dart Front. 



To Make a Tight Front With One Dart. 

Set the machine for the regular front, as directed on page 15. Use curved 
front. Move the top and bottom of the first dart 
as far to the left as they will go and fasten the 
screws there, thus shutting out the front or first 
dart. Then move the right hand piece of the sec- 
ond dart three sizes to the left at the waist ; thus, 
if you had marked the front darts 12, after the 
change they would stand at 9. 

Move the top of second dart to the left, to about 
%y 2 , or so as to give the dart a good shape, as 
shown in Fig. 16. 

Place the machine properly on the goods, and 
then mark the front edge, neck, shoulder, arm-hole, 
under arm, seam and waist line. Mark the dart. 
Curve the front as shown by dotted line A, on 
Fig. 16. The skirt in the front is the same as in 
Fig. 12, or the regular front, excepting there is 
but one dart in the front instead of two. The 
same rules apply to drafting this skirt as to the 
Fig. I 6. others. Remember that the hip measure in draft- 

ing is always applied Jive inches below the waist line and not at the bottom 
of the basque. 

The regular back side body and underarm piece as described on page 12 
and 13 can be used with this front. 




How to Make a Seam From the Top of a Dart to the Shoulder or 
How to Make a Vest Front. 

This is done by extending the dart, as is shown by dotted line C J), 
Fig. 16. The line continues straight up from the top of the dart for about 
three inches, then curves slightly to the right, and then straight to the 
shoulder. It should reach the shoulder near the centre. Sometimes, how- 
ever, it is carried nearer to the neck. Fashion regulates this. When the 
front has two darts, the first dart is the one usually extended. 

When you make a seam from the top of the dart to the shoulder, you 
had better make a paper pattern and cut it apart on the line from the dart 
up, so you can allow for the seams in the goods. Do the same when you 
make a vest front. 



How to Make a Basque with one Dart, Open on the Back. 

Set the machine the same as for the regular two dart front directed on 
page 15, or in measure book. After the machine is all set, shove the 
first dart, top and bottom, over to the left as far as it will go, thus shutting 
it out. Then move the right-hand piece of the second dart three sizes to 
the left. Thus, if you had set the front darts at 10, after the change it 
would stand as 7. Place the top of the second dart so it will be over the 
centre. 



Backs. 



2 3 




{Do not use a curved front with this style.) 
Fold the goods and place the machine upon them, 
and instead of placing its edge at the edge of the 
goods as heretofore, move the machine to the left 
until you can see the edge of the goods through the 
slot to the right of the edge, this is the narrow slot in 
which the screws are placed, and is the centre line of the 
front, shown by B B, Fig 16. When the machine is 
thus placed on the goods, mark as before, and also 
extend the skirt as usual. 

We have you fold the goods, because you desire to 
have no seam in front. The object of moving the 
machine the left before marking, is to get rid of the 
goods that the machine allows for fold, and lap in the 
usual style of open front. 



Fig. 17. 



SSCKg OF" VSffr0U$ Kljlf)0. 
Back Open up the Centre, to f/o with the Front just Described . 

The back side body and underarm piece to go with this front are set 
and drafted the same as usual, except that the cutting line down the cen- 
tre of the back, shown by L M, Fig. 17, becomes the fold line, and goods 
must be allowed to the right of this line for fold or lap — say about \% 
inches — as shown by line O P, Fig. 17. This completes a garment open at 
the back. 

How to make a Sacque Back. 

Arrange the back and side body as usual, as shown on page 11, and in 
measure book, and mark both the cutting and sewing lines of the back 
except the circles where it joins the side body. 
Then dot the sewing line of the circle, two inches 
from the arm-hole towards the waist, and dot the 
sewing line at the waist. Next place the side body 
so that its sewing line will be over the dotted 
sewing line of the back, at E, the arm-hole, and at 
C, the waist, as shown in fig. 18, taking care to have 
the arm-hole at E and the waist line at C in place. 
Mark the arm-hole, the side seam and the skirt, as 
shown in Fig. 18. This back is simply the regular 
back A and side body B, as made by the machine, 
drafted in one piece. 
How to Make a Back With one Seam to the 
Shoulder. 

Draft the back and side body together as directed 
in the preceding directions for a sacque back. Place 
a dot on the waist line 1 J^ inch to the left of the 
centre line, or at C. as shown in Fig. 19. Divide 
the back just below the shoulder into two equal 
parts at F from the seam line at the arm-hole to the 




24 



Seam to the Shoulder. 



seam line at the centre of the back, just at the neck, 
as shows from D at arm-hole to E at neck in Fig. 
19. Then draw a line from .Fat the shoulder to C 
at the waist. Extend this line straight on to the 
bottom of the skirt at ~K, for the side body. 

To get the line C L for the skirt of the back, 
place the back of the machine in the same position it 
occupied when you mark the back, and move it to 
the left or right straight with the waist line until 
either the sewing or cutting line comes to the point 
C, then mark down that edge, and it will give you 
the line C L, as shown in Fig. 19. 

Next mark the dotted line H Q at the shoulder, 
that is curve the side, back to the left about J& inch. 
In order to keep the shoulder at its proper length, 
add a piece at the arm-hole, as shown by the dotted 
line I, equal to the piece cut out in making the curve 
at H G. This gives a better fit back of the arm. 
I For this back it is best to draft a paper pattern, 
M and cut the back apart on the line L C F, The 
skirt of the side body will require a piece to be 
added the size of L C JBTto give its proper width. 

Lay these pieces on the lining and allow % inch for seam where they cut 

apart. 

The line where the paper was cut is the sewing line. In dividing the 
back at the waist line, the two pieces may be equal, but the side body must 
never be narrower than the back. 

How to Make a Back with six Pieces with Seams to the Shovlder. 

Draft the back and side body together as for a sacque back, as shown in 
Fig 18. Divide the waist line into three equal parts, and also divide the 
distance from the sewing line of arm-hole at the shoulder to the sewing 
line at the centre of the back at the neck, into three equal parts. Draw 
straight lines from the divisions at shoulder to the divisions at waist, and 
extend the skirt as shown in Fig. 19. It will be necessary to draft this on 
paper and allow one-half inch for seams where the pattern is cut in two. 




How to Make a Hack in six Pieces with one Straight line to the 
Shoulder and a Curve to the Arm-hole. 

First draft the back and side-body together, as shown in Fig. 18. 
Divide the back at the waist line into three equal parts and at the shoulder 
into 2 equal parts from the seam at arm-hole to the seam at centre of the 
back at the neck. Draw a line from dot at shoulder to dot at waist line 
nearest the centre of the back. Extend the skirt below the waist, as shown 
in Fig. 19. Next, with the circle of the side body, mark a line from that 
point in the arm-hole where the seam generally goes one-third at the dis- 
tance from the top of the side-seam to the shoulder, as represented by dot 
Jin Fig. 19 to the left hand dot at the waist line. Extend the skirt as shown 
in Fig. 19. 






Frf^'ch Rasqi'f. 



25 



This gives a back with a carve to the arm-hole and a straight line to the 
shoulder, and is called a combination back. It can be used to advantage 
for fleshy forms. 




The French Bach. 

This is one where part of the side body is added 
to the back and a part to the under arm-piece, thus 
doing away with the regular side seam. 

Draft the back and side body, as shown in Fig. 
18, so that the sewing lines of the circles of the 
back and side body will come together at the arm- 
hole and waist properly. Thus giving us the back 
and side body together, which makes a back wider 
than is required. To bring it to the proper width, 
we decide the width we desired, the back to be at 
the waist when finished, and place a dot on the 
waist line at that distance from the centre seam of 
the back, as at C, in fig. 20. The piece of the back 
to the left of dot, from C to A is generally about 
one inch wide. Just as much as you take from the 
Zback at the waist line from C to A, take off from 
the arm-hole from E to D. Then with the circle 
of the side body draw the line T> C. By placing 
the waist line of the side body at the waist line A 
B, and the edge of the circle at D, a good curve is 
formed. If you want more curve, drop the waist line 
of the side body below the line A H, and for a less 
curve raise it above. 

Extend the skirt below the waist by placing the back 
of the machine as you have it when you drafted the 
back. Move the machine to the left straight with the 
waist line until the left edge of the skirt at the waist 
comes to C on the waist line. Mark the left side of 
the skirt of the back from C down to F. The skirt 
requires one-half inch more spring than a plain basque 
at ZZ, Fig. 20, five inches below the waist. Now the 
line A E is the regular sewing line of the side body, 
or, in this case, of the sacque back, and C D is the 
sewing line for the French back. The piece between 

the lines A E and C D is a part of the waist, but is 
W ■ ■ 

not used in this back, and must be preserved, as it will 

Fig. 21 . be needed to complete the waist. So you can cut this 

piece out and add it to the side seam of the underarm piece as you will be 

directed in the instructions that follow for the French underarm piece. 



20. 




26 



French Front. 




EC 



The French Underarm Piece. 

Mark the underarm piece both sewing and 
cutting lines and add to the sewing line of the 
side seam the piece not used in the back A E 
C D Fig. 20. This piece of the side body 
or sacque back that was not used in makino- 
the French back needs to be added to the un- 
derarm piece to complete it and give the 
goods required to join the back. It is shown 
by S T, V V, Fig. 21. If in making the 
pattern for the French back you cut the piece 
off that was not required it is just the size 
and shape that you need to add to the under- 
arm piece, and by placing its left hand edge 
at the sewing line of the side seam, then 
marking along its right hand edge, it will 
give the sewing line. Allow 1 inch for seam 
Fig. 22. beyond this. 

The line S J, Fig. 21, shows the sewing line of the side seam, and from 
there to the right the piece S T U V, is what is added from the back. 
Generally this piece is one inch vide and its curve is the same as that of the 
side seam — and as the cutting line of the side seam of the underarm piece 
is one inch deep, as made by the machine, and has the same curve, we can 
make the cutting line the sewing line, which adds the piece required, and 
then add one inch for seam. This will give us about the same result as 
would be obtained by cutting the piece from the back and adding it as 
above directed, and gives less trouble. Remember, when you add one inch 
to the underarm piece as here directed, you must always take a piece of the 
same width off the sacque back to make the French back. Remember to 
continue the armhole curve on the piece you have added, as shown from 
S to U, Fig. 21. This extra width added to the side seam above the 
waist is extended below on the skirt. 

The skirt is added as follows : The front line is extended straight down 
for most persons, as shown from B to C, but those with large stomachs, or 
above the medium, will require a spring, as shown by line H E. The 
front darts are extended below the waist the same as in any other basque 
(see Fig. 22). The hip measure is applied the same. , 

The French Front. 

For this front we set the Machine the same as for the regular front as 
instructed on page 15 or on the diagram, using the curved front. Move 
the first dart over to the left, at top and bottom, thus shutting it out. 
Bring the lower right hand piece of the second dart three sizes to the left, 
place the top at or near 3^ so as to give the dart a good shape, standing 
about straight, the top slanting slightly to the right. See Fig. 22. Mark 
the fold line, neck, shoulder, arm hole, and the underarm seam also the 
waist line. 



The Princess. 27 



Having drafted the front and underarm piece as instructed, we can prob- 
ably improve the width of the pieces by adding \ inch to the underarm 
seam of the front, making it that much wider. This can be done by simply 
making the cutting line the sewing line and then adding i an inch outside 
for eeam. Now as we have made the front -£ an inch wider, we need to 
take just that much off the underarm piece or our waist would get too 
large. This is done by simply making the inside or seam line the cutting 
line, and then marking the seam line ■£ an inch to the right, by moving the 
machine that much. 



How to Make a Plaited, Gathered or Shirred Waist. 

Draft the lining as for the regular basque, as instructed on page 11, or 
on the diagram. 

Then plait, gather or shirr the outside before cutting and sewing in with 
or on the lining. 



To Make a Low Neck. 

Arrange the machine and draft as for the regular basque. Cut out such 
parts about the neck, front and back as you wish removed. Remember, 
that there is no difference in drafting a low neck from the drafting the plain 
basque. The only difference consists in cutting out around the neck. 



To Make a Yoke. 

Draft a plain basque. Then cut out as much as desired around the neck, 
and cut off front, side body and back at a line about two inches below the 
arm-hole, or shorter, if desired. 



T&r} S>i{lXCl$& f>0I<0X8l$^, W-&T^n j fiOOt\ U'M3T^, %t£. 



The Princess. 

Arrange the machine as for a plain basque, as directed on pages 1 1 to 15, 
or in the measure book or chart, and add curved front for all forms except 
those with very small bust. Set the front darts two sizes less for a Princess 
than for a basque for the same party ; thus, if the front darts are marked 
12 in the measure book, set at 10 for a Princess. Divide the darts so that 
the second is a little larger than the first. When the machine is all set, 
mark all the cutting and sewing lines and the waist line for the front. 



Princfs? Front. 




To Add the Skirt. 

Extend the fold line straight down from 
B at the waist to H at the bottom, for 
length of skirt, as shown at figure 23. Add 
for hem when the bottom is not to be faced. 
Extend the first dart D straight down below 
the waist line 7 inches, and have the dart 
come to a point there at R. From _R have 
the lines extend together further down £ an 
inch. This will get rid of the fullness at 
the bottom of the dart. 

Make the second dart E in the same 
manner. 

Extend the undearm seam on the front 
below the waist, as usual, five inches, by- 
making G the distance from 77 required by 
the Front Skirt Table on page 17, accord- 
ing to the hip measure. The hip dart F is 
formed by the underarm seam line of the 
front joining the underarm seam of the under- 
arm piece about 5 inches below the waist line 
at G. The lines extend together at G £ an 
inch or more to get clear of the fullness. 
Fig 23- The distance the underarm piece is placed 

to the right of the front at F can be guided by the spring of the underarm 
seam. Have the waist line on a line with the waist line of the front, then 
move to the right or left until the lower end of the sewing line of the 
underarm seam on this part of the machine comes to the sewing line of the 
front at G, or you can place the underarm piece to the right of the front 
as many sizes as the hip is large, according to the measure on the square. 
A small bip will require about 2 inches space at F, a medium 3, and large 4. 
The dotted lines below the hip dart are not often used, only when the 
goods are very narrow, and then as described hereafter. 

The side seam below the waist for line G V, is drafted as usual. 
Next decide how wide the bottom of the skirt is to be at the floor line. 
Is it to be more or less than three yards? For a lady that measures 41 
inches around the hips, 1\ yards at the floor would be medium. If, then, 
we wish the garment to be 1\ yards at the floor line, we refer to the table 
for Princess skirts on page 32, also found in the measure book ; find 1\ 
yards in the first column. Opposite, in the second column, you will find 27 
inches, which is the width of the front at the floor, which gives the distance 
from H to K, Fig. 23. Measure the length of the skirt at the side from 
F at the waist down to J. Draw a line from H through J straight to IK, 
for the width of front at the floor. 

At B", when the train is very long, add 1-J inches to L, as the train 
draws the skirt up at this point, and without this allowance makes it short 
at this place. Have this line, C X, curved in (about 8 inches above the 
floor line) at W, about 2 inches from a straight line from L to V. This 
will cause the train to carry better. This completes the regular Princess 
front. 



Princess Back. 



*9 



The dotted lines from the hip dart down are used only when the goods 
are very narrow. When the goods are narrow, then make a seam down 
from the hip dart. The front line of the hip dart of tin waist, springs back 
regularly to G. From this on to the bottom at J it springs back or to th e 
right one inch for each twelve inches down. If, then, from G to J is 36 
inches, J is 3 inches further from the fold line than G. In other words 
this line keeps running back slightly from the waist to the 
floor. The back line of the hip dart is drafted regularly to 
G, but from this point, where it meets and crosses the front 
line, it is carried straight down parallel with the fold line 
in front, or with the grain of the cloth, to the bottom of 
u the skirt at I. When the hip dart is continued down with 
the seam the front at the bottom extends from BtoJ, and 
the underarm piece from J to i, 

How to Make the Back of the Princess. 

Having arranged the machine for the regular back and 
marked as usual, we have the back made to 5 inches below 
the waist line. To extend the skirt continue the centre line 
of the back B D, Fig. 24, to the floor at F, and continue 
it on to II until it gives you the length of train desired. 
For the width of this piece at the floor consult the column 
for width of back, opposite the width of skirt you are 
making (in this case "i\ yards) in the table for the princess 
skirt on page 30, or in the measure book. There you find 
9 inches as the width of this piece at this point, the dist- 
ance from F to E, at which point make a dot. 

Next place the end of the tape at the waist line at A 
and at 6 inches down, place it out to the regular spring at 
the back at C, then continue the line down to E, and ex- 
tend beyond E, the length desired for train to G. This 
line curves slightly over the hip just below C. The length 
of train varies from 2 inches to 2 yards, beyond E F the 
floor line of the skirt. The train is shaped after the side 
Fig- 24. body is drafted, and the train part placed as it should go 

together. Then the edge of J L, Fig. 24, and V V, Fig. 25, can be trimmed 

to suit the style desired. 

When you desire the train to be extra full you can throw extra fullness 
in the centre seam from F to L. This is seldom necessary. When plaits or 
fullness are desired below the waist you can add as shown by the dotted 
lines I J" and K L, Fig 24. 



$° 



Skirt TAfitE. 



T 







The Side Body. 

Having arranged and marked the side body as usual 
it will complete to 5 inches below the waist line. To 
extend the skirt continue line 31 P, Fig. 25, down 
straight from jp, with the grain of the cloth to V, the 
length of the front on the side. This you can get by 
measuring. To get the width of the side hody at the 
floor line consult the princess table for skirts. There you 
will find the distance from V to W at which point make 
a dot. In this case we are using 2% yards for the width 
at the floor and the table gives 11 as the width from V 
to W. 

Place the end of the tape at 2V on the waist line. 
Spring it out as required to O five inches below the 
waist and draw a line from O to W, the length of the 
skirt on the back. 

To get the train for the side body we continue the 
line from W, 12 inches to S, and then 4 inches to the 
right of S we make a dot. The skirt of the side body 
which joins the back begins to curve to the right just 
above W, and passes through the dot to the right of S, 
which we have just made. The wedge-shaped piece iS 
W U is to give the spring and allow the train to lay 
properly on the floor. It is generally added to the side 
Fig. 25- body as we have described, but can be added to the 
skirt of the back at this point, when the goods are sufficiently wide to per- 
mit it to be done without piecing, and it would be necessary to piece the 
side body. 

The dotted line It W shows how to add fullness or plaits for a short 
skirt, and dotted lines T V for a train skirt. 

Fashion controls the shape and length of the train, they are all drafted 
on the above plan, and, from the instructions, you should have no difficulty 
in following all changes of fashion. 
Skirt Table, at the Floor For Princess, Waterproof and TJUter. 



I 



u 



WHOLE WIDTH AT 


WIDTH OF FKONT AT 


WIDTH OF SIDE BODT 


WIDTH OF BACK AT 


THE FLOOK. 


THE ILOOK. 

15 Inches.- 


AT TBE FLOOK. 

7 Inches ... 


THE FLOOR. 


l£ Yards 


5 Inches 


If " ■- 

2 " 


18 " 

21 " 


8 " ...... 

9 " 


6 " 

7 " 


2i " 

2t " --. 


■>4 " 

27 " 


10 " ■ 

11 " 


8 " 

9 " 


2f " 


30 ' ... 


12 " 


10 " 


3 " 


33 " 


L3 " 


11 " 


H " 

3£ " 


36 '• 

39 " 


14 " .. ... 

15 " 


12 " 

13 " 


3f " 


32 " --. 


16 " 


14 " 


4 " 


45 " 


17 " .. 


15 " 


4i " - 

4£ " 

4| " 


48 " 

51 " 

54 " ■. 


18 " 

19 " 

20 " 


6 " 

17 " 

IS " 


5 " 


57 " 


21 " 


19 " 



The Polonaise. 




Fig. 26. 



Poi<oXSi^. 

The Front 

Of the polonaise is made the same as the front 
of the Princess just described, except that it is 
generally two inches shorter and does not curve 
in above F. Fig. 26 as would be required for a 
train. It is generally draped or fulled along the 
side at G G, as shown in Fig. 26. This front 
can be changed and draped to coincide with the 
changes of fashion. 

The Back and side Body 
Can be drafted separately as 
for the Princess, or can be 
placed about six inches apart 
on the same waist line as 
shown by Fig. 27. The circle 
lines of the back and those 
of the side body are continued 
below the waist line, regularly 
for 6 inches, and then straight 
on, until they come together G 
at J. This makes the skirt of the side body and back in 
one piece ; the centre line down the back is continued 
from JL to _R in a straight line from the waist to within G 
two inches of the floor. The side seam over the hip has 
been carried down 5 inches below the waist by the 
machine. As you continue, for the next 3 inches G 
gradually curve into a straight line and continue to the 
bottom of the skirt with the gTain of the goods. If 
plaits or fullness is desired below the waist they can be 
added in the centre of the back from M to N, and be- 
tween the side, body and back by increasing the space 
between them as desired by L. , 

The point below the waist at which the fullness is added varies from £ 
to 6 inches, according to the fashion. Different drapings will give you as 
many varieties of styles as you may desire, and this same style of skirt 
with back and side body together, is used without draping for various 
kinds of garments. 

Princess, Polonaise, Ulster, Waterproof, Duster, »fec., are all made on 
the same general plan, and the same tables and rules apply to them. 

8 Pl<SlX Of} GfOf^f) $Klf(T 
Is made with a full breadth of goods in front, one or two pieces on the 
side, and a full breadth or more in the back. The front and side pieces 
are gored or tapered at the top. In making this skirt the width of the 
goods and the size of the figure ought to be taken into account, and from 
them the number of the pieces and the size of each determined. 

A medium size skirt would be 24 inches at the waist, 41 at the hips, and 
2 yards and 4 inches at the floor. For half the skirt, at the floor, we would 
have 38 inches. When the goods are 22 inches wide, the front piece, 
which is folded, will be 1 7 inches wide at the bottom from B to C, C is at 
right angle with line A Ji as shown in No. 1 Fig. 28. The length A S is 
the length of skirt desired, say 38 inches. 'Ihe top from A to X you 




Fig. 27. 



3 2 



tJoRED S£lRT. 



would make 6^ inches wide — about one fourth the waist size. Draw a 
straight line from X to C at the bottom of the skirt. At the top of this 
line you take out a small gore, 1 inch wide, at the top from D to X, running 
out 7 inches below. We also take out a small gore at E, l£ inches wide at 
the top and 7 inches deep. This leaves this piece 4 inches at the top when 
finished. 




Fig. 28. 

Next make the piece No. 2 Fig. 28. Make the first line straight from 

Y to J, the length of the skirt. Before deciding the width of the bottom 
of this piece we add the width of the front piece and the width of the 
back at the floor together, and as they are both folded it will generally be 
equal to one breadth of the goods ; which in this case is 22 inches, which, 
taken from 38, the half of the skirt at bottom, leaves 16 as the correct width 
for the bottom of this piece. Place a dot at M. 16 inches from J, on a 
line at right angles with the front line Y J. At the top, the width from 

Y to Z, make a little over one-third the waist size, say 8 inches, and draw 
line Z JH. Take off a small gore from H to I on the front line, 1 inch 
wide at the top, down to H, 7 inches. Also take off a gore from L to A 
1 inch wide at the top, down 7 inches to N. Also, take out a gore from 
the centre, 2 inches wide at the top, down 7 inches deep, to K. This will 
leave this piece about 4 inches wide at the top, when finished, sometimes 
two breadths are used in the back when that is the case the goods are 
generally narrowed when two breadths are used you will have one breadth 
to add to the width of the front-piece. 

The back piece is generally a straight piece of full- width goods, and is 
generally gathered on the band to suit. The back piece can be made 
gored, the same as the front, but this is not often done. If, for any reason, 
you should use this gored piece on the back, you will need to run a piece 
of tape over the seams on the inside, where it joins the side piece, as other- 
wise both pieces being on the bias, they would sag at the seam. Remem- 
ber that ichenever two bias edges are united in a seam, you can prevent 
stretching by covering with a tape. 

When the goods are used 24 inches wide, in place of 22, the front and 
back pieces will each be one inch wider at the floor, and the side piece can 
be made narrower in proportion, as shown by the dotted lines. 

When the goods are very narrow you can use two full widths in the back 
or two iide gores, as you may desire. 



Changes for Outside Garments. 



35 



01/T$lf)^ 0&f?MT}KT& COSTS, g»CQUf[$, %yc 

The Measure. 

If the party has on a garment such as you wish to •make, tako the 
measure over it, just as you would for a basque, making the same full out- 
glth measure in your measure-book. Set t*he machine and draft, according 
to the measures taken. It is, however, so seldom that the party you wish 
to measure has on such a garment as you desire to make, that it is always 
better to depend upon the plain basque measure, and then enlarge it for an 
outside garment. That is, set the machine to the basque measure, and en- 
large as follows. 

Increase the neck and arm-hole each ont size on both back and, front 
increase the width of back length of shoulder each a half size. Widen the 
back at the waist two fashion sizes, and the skirt of the back tin same. In- 
crease the underarm pieoe one size at the top, at the waist, and at the 
skirt. Increase the width of the front length of shoulder one size, and 
widen the front at the waist two sizes. Shorten the lower part of the back 
and front each \ inch and wherever the underarm length is used, on the 
Back, Side body Underarm piece and Front. Change the side body circles 
to suit the back after they are changed, that is, make the circles correspond 
with the circles of the back in length, and the side seam with the side seam 
of the front or underarm piece. 

Sow To ©fjstfT- a ©oui^-s^asT^f) cost asr^ of? 

T8W=oi/SfiTr^ Tl^fiT COST. 

The Half Tight Front. 

Having arranged the machine according to the measures, and made the 

changes just described re- 
quired for an outside gar- 
ment, place the front of the 
machine 1 inches back from 
the edge of the goods, so as 
to give the goods required 
for double breast. Have the 
waist line the distance from 
the bottom of the goods or 
the paper the length of skirt 
required about 16 inches ; 
with the machine in this 
position, mark the neck, 
shoulder, arm-hole underarm 
seam and waist line. To make 
the hip dart D, Fig, 29> 
place the underarm piece to 
the right of the point the 
space between the two being 
the number of sizes the hip is 
large, as found with the 
square. Have the waist line 
i of the underarm piece on a 
line with the waist line of 




34 Changes for Outside Garments. 

the front. Have the underarm seams of the front and underarm piece come 
to a point at D 1 inch below the waist line. Do not mark the front darts. 
Dot down in front of the center line from the neck to the waist, and ex- 
tend the line on to the bottom of the skirt, as shown by A JB C, Fig. 29. 
The center line is the narrow slot running from the neck to the waist line 
in which the screws and rivets slide. It is i s inch to the right of the fold 
line. 

At A, at the neck of the top of the dotted line, a small gore is some- 
times taken out, about \ inch wide at the top, running down 4 inches, this 
is to make the lap keep back in its place and fit properly at the neck. 
Mark from A at the neck out to J~. This line generally goes straight out ; 
fashion, however, controls this as well as the collar. 

The skirt of this coat is made the same as the regular basque skirt, ex- 
cept that the hip seams form a dart, as shown in Fig. 29. When the gar- 
ment is half tight there will be no darts in front. The above gives us a 
half tight garment. See back next page. 

To Make a Three-quarter Tight. 

Make the same as above for a half tight, except that you add one front 
dart as follows : Place the machine as before when you mark the front, 
then move the machine to the left until the second dart is midway between 
the center line and the hip dart. Then mark the dart E F G, as shown 
in Fig. 29. See back for this front on next page. 

To Make a Half Tight Front Without any Darts. 

Simply arrange the machine as before except the hip dart seam, which 
must be shut out at top and bottom, and not marked. By bringing the 
underarm piece so its seam line is directly over the underarm seam of the 
front. Have the waist lines on a line. Allow for an outside garment. 
Draft the same as before, except the darts. See the back for this front 
on next page. 

To Make a Tight-Fitting Front. 

Arrange the machine as for the regular basque ; increase the neck one size 
front and back, increase the width of back, and length of shoulder back each 
£ size for thin, and one size for heavy material, increase the width of front 
1 size, increase the arm hole 1 size for thin, and 2 sizes for heavy material, 
both front and back, widen the waist and skirt of the back, each 2 fashion 
sizes, add 1 size to the waist in front, increase the underarm piece at the 
top, at the waist and at the skirt each one size shorten the side seam or 
underarm length of the back, side body underarm piece and front, each 1 
inch ; change the circle of the side body, so that they will correspond with 
the circles of the back. 

If you want a double-breasted garment place the machine on the goods 
4 inches from the edge, and if you want a single-breasted garment place 
the edge of the machine 1£ inch from the edge of the goods. Have the 
waist line the distance from the bottom of the goods that you desire the 
length of the skirt. Mark the center line for double-breasted, or the fold 
line for single-breasted, neck, shoulder, arm-hole, side seam, waist line, hip 
dart, and the two front darts. Add the skirt the same as for a basque. 
See back for this front on next page. 



French Jackets. 



35 



T8$ SSCK. 

Any Side Body For Paletots or Outside Garments. 

Set the back as for the regular basque to the measure taken and make the 
necessary changes for an outside garment as directed, page 33, that is in- 
crease the arm-hole and neck each 1 size. The width of back y 2 size, and 
the length of the shoulder in proportion. Add 2 sizes at the waist and skirt 
each, and shorten the lower part of the length of back, usually the underarm 
length ^ inch. Draft as before, except the sewing 
line in the center of the back. This generally extends 
straight from the waist to the neck, as shown in Fig. 
30. 

Si ile Body, 

Set the machine according to the 
measure taken and make the side jj 
seam and circles each '4 inch shorter 
as required for outside garments. 
Draft as before and straghten up the 
side seam below the waist (see Fig. 
31), as this garment is a loose one it 
does not require so great a curve just 
below the waist. Continue the skirt 
down to the length desired. This 
back and side body can be used with 
either of the fronts, above described 
on pages 35 and 36. 

Sacque Back or Back and Side 
Body Together. 

Set the back as for the regular 
basque and then increase the neck 
Fig. 30. and arm-hole each one size. Increase Fig. 31 . 

the width of back \ size. Increase the width at waist and skirt 2 fashion 
sizes. Shorten the lower part of the length of back or underarm length | 
inch, and the side seam and circles of the side body each \ inch. Mark the 
back all except the circles. Dot the sewing line of the circles near the arm- 
hole and near the waist. Place the side body so that the lines at the arm- 
hole and waist are right, and have the seiving line of the circles of the side 
body over the dots made at the circle of the back near arm-hole and waist. 
Mark the arm-hole and side seam to the waist, and continue to the bottom 
of the skirt. Mark the waist line. This back is not often used but can be 
used with either of the fronts above given. It is the same as Fig. 18, on 
page 23, except it is changed to an outside garment. 





T'O Jtf$K$ £ tff^dS J$dK^T. 

Take a piece off the Sacque Back about 1 inch wide just inside of the side 
I seam as described on Fig. 20 for a basque on page 25 and add it to the 
underarm piece, as described and shown in Fig. 21, on page 25. The ma- 
chine must be changed of course for an outside garment. 



36 



Coat, Tight-Fitting. 




® tig^St" swi^ com wi^s cijogg $ki^t. 

Arrange the machine according to the measure as for the regular basque, 
and then enlarge it as follows : 

The Bach. 
Increase the neck one size, width of back and length of shoulder one-half 
size for thin, or one size for thick goods. The arm-hole one size for thin or 
two for thick goods. Widen the waist two fashion sizes and the skirt the 
same, and shorten the lower part of back length \ inch. 

Mark the back as usual all except the seam line down the 
centre of the back ; this is straighter in coats than basques. 
Have the line nearly straight from the waist line to the neck, 
unless the back is very round, in this case you must use the 
curve to fit. The lap in centre seam of the back is shown by 
dotted line in Fig. 32. Extend the skirt down the required 
length say 10 inches. 

The Side Bod)/, 

Simply shorten the circles to correspond with the back as 
changed, increase the arm-hole one size, and shorten the side 
seam one-half inch. Mark outside and inside as before, and 
then cut the skirt off below the waist line the required length 
2i or 3 inches, as shown in Fig. 33, by M N O P. 

The Underarm Piece. 

Fig. 32. Enlarge the top, waist and skirt, each one size, and shorten 
the side seam one-half inch, making it the same as the side body or front. 

The Front. 

Enlarge the front as follows : Increase the neck one size, lengthen the 
shoulder one-half inch to correspond with the shoulder of the back, increase 
the arm hole one size for thin, or two for thick good?, shorten the side seam 
one-half inch ; increase the waist one size; leave the darts as before ; shorten 
the lower part of the front length one-half inch. Place the outer edge one 
and one half inch back from the edge of the cloth for single-breasted or 
four inches back for double-breasted. 

Mark the same as usual ; if 
double breasted mark the centre 
line A F, Fig. 33, to the right of 
the fold line -J inch. The front 
is either straight or curved, as 
fashion requires. The skirt is 
added 6 or eight inches long as 
before and is then cut off below 
the waist line to suit the fashion 
from 2 to 4 inches. In this case 
we will say three inches, as shown 
by G I O X. The underarm 
piece and side body are cut oft 
the same length. The line is 
curved or straight according to 
fashion ; generally it is straight 
(J from the front back to the front 
darts, then curves up one-half inch 
at the hip seam or dart and down 




Fig. 33. 

again at the side seam ; this downward slant is continued across the Side 
Body Skirt as shown by O If, Fig. 33. 



Collars. 



37 



The Cross Skirt for Front and Side Body. 

Measure across the skirt of the front underarm piece and side body where 
you cut it off 3 inches below the waist line from G to N ; don't include the 
seams and darts. This will give you the width of the" front underarm 
piece and side body when made up. Add two inches to this for lap and it 
will give the required length of the cross skirt at the top, where it joins 
the front and side body. Now, if the length of the back skirt is '10 inches 
long the front will want to be the same. We have below the waist line 3 
inches, count -k inch for seam and we have 2£ finished. The cross skirl 
then will need to finish 7£ inches ; to make the 10 inches to do this it will 
need 1 inch at top for seam and one or more inches at the bottom, say 9 
inches deep. To draft tht cross skirt: Dot J2 back from the edge of goods 
2 inches. Measure straight across to the right to S, the length from G to 
y as just obtained. Curve this line down in the centre one inch at Z, this 
will give a line to suit the bottom of front, as shown in Fig. 29, but 
fashion uses curves as well as straight lines across at the top of the cross 
skirt, that is, adds to the regular skirt at one point, and takes oft the cross 
skirt just as much , so fashion must be your guide here. 

The grain of the cloth is shown by X the arrow. The depth of the skirt 
is shown by It T, also the spring of the front, when you wish the cloth 
to meet in front. The lines R V represent cut-away fronts, Y where to 
add the pocket, and S V the spring where it joins the back. For skirts 
not over 10 inches long we add half the depth of skirt to get the spring, 
thus, if it is 8 inches from ,S to W it will be 4 from W to U. This gives 
plenty of slant ; any extra goods at U can simply be turned under. 

This same plan is used for basques with cross skirts. 

Tft^ dOLL8f?. 

The Standing Collar is slightly curved. Take the back of the machine 
and mark a line with the circle the length desired ; then move the back 
From the line just made two and a half inches, and mark another line the 
same as before. Cut off one inch longer than half the neck size, shape the 
left end for the front and the right cut square off for the seam, as shown 
by A, Fig. 34. 

The Plain Rolling Collar foe Single 

Breast — see B, Fig. 34. It is cut just one 
inch longer than half the neck size, and one 
inch wider than it is to be when finished, say 
three inches. The top is straight, the lower 
edge slightly curved. The dotted lines show 
the fold line. 

The "Wide Rolling Collar is made the same 
as H, shown by C, Fig. 34. Can be used for 
double-breasted garments, 

The Collar and Lapel Together, is shown 
by D, Fig. 34. It is faced on to the front, 
which is cut away from the side of the neck to 
a point five or more inches below the neck on 
the front line. This will give you the principal 
styles only. 
Fig. 34. 
When a Rolling Collar is used. You can trim out \ or •£ inch all round 
the neck, before putting it in, as they do not require the neck to be as 
small as the standing collar. 



cz 




38 



The Sleeve. 



¥S$ $LJ$V^. 

One of the most important parts of the dress is the sleeve. "When it fits 
badly it is both uncomfortable and unsightly. 

To become a good dressmaker you must thoroughly master this part of 
your trade. Many a good dressmaker has almost luined her trade by 
trying to make one pattern do for all her customers. It would be too 
short on the shoulder for this one, wrinkle across the full part of the arm 
for that one, draw across the back for another, bind the arm of the next 
clown, have the elbow in the wrong place, and so on. 

To make a sleeve to fit, and have it tight, requires the following measures; 
1st. Length of Sleeve. 4 th. Size at the Wrist. 

2nd. " to the elbow. 5th. " of the upper arm, 

3rd. Size of the arm-hole, 6th. " at the elbow. 

For each of which there is a place in the measure book. 

The size around the arm half way between the shoulder and the elbow, 
and at the letter point are used simply as test measures to change the 
regular sleeve, and tighten it up to suit the arm: 

To make a Sleeve to fit medium tight, four measures are required; 
1st. Length of sleeve. 3rd. Length to the elbow 

2nd. Size of arm hole. 4th. Size at the hand. 

We refer to the following table for the information regarding the 
curve at arm-hole, width of the pieces, etc. And it is to be used in con- 
nection with the above measures. 

This table gives a curve at the arm-hole suited to the present style, which 
requires the sleeve to join the body just at the point or joint of the shoulder. 
Now just as much as you shorten the shoulder, just that much you must 
add to the curve of the sleeve at the top at 6. 






Sleeve Table for ihe A 


rin-hol 


e. 


3 

3 


Elbow part 


■n 

=> 
3 


Table for sleeve at wrist _ 




4 


6 


G 


7 


s 


9 


10 


11 


]9, 


13 


T 


S 




14 


15 




Front 


Back 


Hi eii 


wjatu 


Width 


£. 








ar 










Size 


Wldili 01 


Wlrtili nf 


Arm- 
Hole. 


Curve 




Point 


Of Upper 


of Under 


_ 


- 






ot 










at 


upper 


Upper 


from 
l to 4 


from 
1 to 5 


trom 
1 toe 


trom 
6 to 7 


from 
6 to 8 


CP 

O 


►3 

a 


> 

4 


> 


a 

o 


> 

Sf 


> 


> 

i 


i 


wrlm 

Plhi-.il 

ed. 


fMtjce 

from 

13 to 14 


from 
13 to 10 
















a 


*< 


^ 


=£ 


•^ 


'< 


•-< 


m 








10 


at 


I 


3* 


7 


4 




m 


CO 


CO 


a 


03 


ce 


CO 


f- 


74 


54 


44 


11 


3 


1 


4 


7* 


44 




B 


K> 


to 


crc 


(v 




(.O 




74 


54 


44 


13 


H 


n 


44 


8 


5 




o ■ 


a 





~ 


D 


H 

n 


a 



to 


7* 


5* 


4« 


13 


34 


14 


4J 


84 


54 


5? 


e 






en 


— 


fc- 


<r* 


8 


5 J 


44 


14 


H 


1| 


5 


9 


6 


5" 


H 


CO 


09 


< 
a 


CO 


i-h 


CO 


-: 


84 


5* 


4* 


15 


4 


H 


54 


94 


64 


a 


C 













S° 


W 


8, 


5* 


4J 


16 


44 


H 


5* 


10 


7 


7, 


Si 






CD 


a 


ti 


C 


et 


m 


H 


44 


17 


4* 


n 


6 


10i 


74 


o 


3 




«-j 


jjT 


y 


ts 


< 


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6 


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18 


4* 


H 


H 


11 


8 


3" 


S 


p 


Dl 


to 






9J 


6+ 


5^ 


19 


5 


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6* 


11* 


84 


s> 


—J 






2- 






01 




91 


64 


5i 


20 


H 


a* 


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12 


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nr 


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£ 










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6f 


5# 


21 


51 


a* 


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124 


94 


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si" 










10 


64 


54 



This table can be used for the arm-hole and wrist separately as two dif- 
ferent tables, using the part to the left for the arm-hole table, and the part 
to the right for the wrist table. Or it can be used as one table by following 
the line through both parts of the table for the arm-hole size. This will 
give a proportional size of elbow and wrist to the arm-hole. 

We can also get a proportional length to the elbow for a sleeve, by 
dividing the length into equal parts, then adding 1 inch to the upper half 
and taking 1 inch off the lower half. Thus, sleeve 22, one-half, 11; 1 inch 
added for upper length makes 12 to elbow and 10 for length from elbow 
to wrist. 

A plain or proportional sleeve can thus be drafted from the size of arm- 
hole and length of sleeve, but you will always find it best to get the size 
at the wrist and to locate the elbow point, for any sleeve which you 
desire to have fit closely, 



To Draft the Sleeve. 



39 



Id Fig. 35, we use figures to designate the order of making or learning 
to draft the sleeve. The figures, 1, 2, 3, &c, show the order of the things 
to be done. The distance from 1 to 2 the length of sleeve, from 1 to 3 the 
length to the elbow. The size of arm-hole, and size at hand are found in 
the measures, and the figures 1, 2, and 3 are located by them, all the other 
figures are located by table on page 38. In other words you can find in 
table all the lengths, without figuring, needed for the sleeve that are not 
found in the measures themselves. 

To use the table find the arm-hole size in the first column, then follow 
out the line to the right, in the second column which has 4 at the top you 
will get the distance from 1 to 4, in the next column from 1 to 5, and so on 
through. In the table you get the distance and in Fig. 35 the location for 
each point or figure. Remember all the distances not given in the 
measures are found in the table. 

To Draft the Sleeve. 

We follow the figures in learning, 1 is the first dot or starting point, 2 
the second dot, and so on. 




Fig. 35. 

These figures are taken from the measures or the table. 
1st. Get the length for sleeve from the measures. 
2nd. Draw line from 1 to 2 full length as shown in Fig. 35 in this 

OOSB .. 

3rd. Dot at 3, the length to the elbow which is from 1 to 3 and is 
found in the measures, in this case 

4th. Dot at 4 the length for the inside curve at the arm-hole This 
is found in the table. Find the arm hole size, in this case 14, 
in the first column, follow this line on through the table to 
the right, in the second column, which has 4 at the top, you 
will find the proper distance from 1 to 4, in this case — 

5th. Dot at 5, the length for the back curve at the top, which is 
found in the table in the third column, which is marked 5 at 
the top, and is the distance from 1 to 5, in this case 

6th. Draw line from 1 to 6 the distance for the high-point. This 
is found in the table in the fourth column which has 6 at the 
top. The high point or 6 is out from 1 at a right angle to 
line 1 to 2. The distance in this case .,,..,......,, 



12 



3| 

1* 



4o 



Sleeve, How to Draft. 



7th. The width for the upper part of the sleeve at the arm-hole 
from 5 to 7 is found in the table in the column which has 7 at 
the top, draw line from 5 to 7 at a right angle with line 1 to 
2 in this case -- - 

Sih. Dot at 8 the width for the under part at the top, the distance 
from 5 to 8 is found in the table in the column which has 8 at 
the top, and in this case 

9th. The distance from 7 to 9 is the length to the elbow as found 
in the measure, draw line from 7 to 9 square with line 5 to in 
th is case 

1 Oth. The distance from 9 to 10 is the difference in the width of the 
pieces at the elbow and is always 2 inch iu the draft, it is often 
changed after the draft is made, draw line from 10 to S 

I Hh. The distance from 3 to 11 for the inside curve is always 2 
inches, draw line from 11 to 4 

1 2th. The distance from 2 to 12 is always 2 inches and is the end 
of the sleeve at the hand 

13th. The distance from 12 to 13 controls the curve of the sleeve 
it is usually }4 inch but varies some with fashion, when more 
than y 2 inch is used the sleeve curves more, the dot 13 should 
be directly opposite and below the 12 outside the line; draw 
line from 11 to 13 - _.... 

14th. Directly above 13 two inches dot at T and then dot at S \\ 
inches to the right this gives the angle for the line at the 
hand from 13 through S, the distance from 13 to His found in 
the table. Find the size at the hand in this case 8 in its column 
and on a line to the right in column with 14 at the top you 
will find the distance to 14, draw line from 13 to 14 in this cast 

15th. The distance from 13 to 15, the width of the under piece at 
the hand, is found in the table on the line to the right of the 
size at the hand in the last column which is marked 15 at the 
top and is 



64 



Draw lines from 9 to 14 and from 10 to 16. 
the circles of the back or side body. 
17 



Curve at 9, 10, and 11 with 




Fig. 36. 

To Make a Sleeve with a wide Upper and Narrow Under. 

Draft the sleeve just described and shown in Fig. 35, page 39 according 
to the measures and the table as explained. Then dot, as shown in Fig 
36 1£ inches from 7, on line 7 to 9 at 16 and dot at 1 7 out square -from 



To Get the Curve. 41 



16, the same distance H inches. Extend the armhole from 7 to 17 and 
draw a' line from 1 7 to 9 we have thus added a piece H inches wide to 
the upper piece at the armhole. To keep the sleeve the same size take off 
of the underpiece a piece as large as was added to the upper to do this 
dot at 18 on line 8 to 10 in from 8, the 1A inch, then dot at 19 in on the 
underpiece 1-J inch in from the 18, draw a line from 18 to 10. At the arm- 
hole part of the under arm piece a half inch is added for seam. 

You can add as much as 2 inches to the upper piece and make the under 
that much less by making the distance from ■; to 16, and 16 to 17 each 2 
inch, and the distance from 8 to 18, and 18 to 19 the same. 

To get the Curve of the underpiece at the armhole use the siilf 

body. 

The curve for the upper piece at the armhole is from 7 to 6 and then 
down to 4 ; have it broad .Fand not sharp. The better plan is to make a 
dot about 1-J inches to the light aud H to the left and ^ inch above at 6, 
then extend this line down to S and down to 4. Have the line at almost 
straight for the 3 inches. 

To muli tin ski 1; tight -Jilting, use the test lines _P Q and P R for the 
upper part, and 11,9 and 11, 10 at the elbow. That is, measure the sleeve 
at these points, and if they exceed the measure you have in the measure 
book more than two inches, take out the extra goods at It and Q for the 
upper part, and 9 and 10 at the elbow. Shape as shown by the dotted lines. 

Extra fullness on top 0/ the shoulder or a puff\s made by the curve of the 
upper piece beyond 6 Fig. 35. 

For a very short short shoulder the top of the sleeve must be extended at 
this point. Add to the curve as you shorten the shoulder. 

A straight or curved sleeve can be made by simply changing the distance 
from 12 to 13. When 13 is )' z inch from 12, the sleeve curves about right 
for a common sleeve, and when it is one inch, it has considerable of curve. 

To make a slight fullness at the elbow, draft as instructed above. To 
get clear of the fullness at the elbow add \ inch to the underpiece 
from 10 to 15 and take \ inch off the upper piece from 9 to 14. Or leave 
sleeve as first drafted and add A inch on or under at 15. Remember there 
is always a half inch added to the armhole part of the underpiece from 4 to 
8. When the upper piece is some longer than the under, the extra length is 
fulled in at the elbow in a space of two inches. 

Draft as many as 6 as sleeves of this style and that will fix the figures 
in your mind, so you will know just where they belong without marking 
them. Keep at the sleeve until you master it. 

Cut out the pattern on the lines as is marked, except at 6, where you must 
allow extra for short shoulder or puff sleeve. The goods for seams are 
included in the draft and are not to be allowed extra. The seam must be 
taken a full half inch deep, or they will be too large. 

To baste the sleeve, start at the arm-hole and baste the inside seam first. 
Then put the back seam together at the top and baste evenly up to within 
two inches of the elbow point : next start the wrist and baste up to within 
two inches of the elbow. Gather the upper part of the sleeve at the elbow 
on a thread, then baste it to the under part. This will bring whatever 
fullness there may be in the sleeve in its proper place. 

To put the sleere in, start the back seam, at the arm-hole, at the top of 
the curve where the sida body joins the back, this is nearly correct for the 
sleeve as drafted from Fig. 35, but when changed as instructed in Fig. 36, 
the back seam comes near the top of the side seam, a half inch seam is taken 
in the arm-hole in both the sleeve and the body ; baste evenly up to the 
shoulder seam ; from there up over the shoulder full the sleeve. The 



4 2 



Circulars and Capes. 



highest point of the sleeve goes to the highest point of the shoulder. Put- 
ting in the sleeve at the arm-hole is very important, as the sleeve will twist 
if not right. Remember the deep seam. 

TO MAKE A SLEEVE WITHOUT THE BACK SEAM FROM TnE ELBOW TO THE 

SHOULDER. 

Draft the sleeve as shown in Fig. 35, page 41. Take off the under piece 
with the wheel, then lay the upper and under pieces with the two back 
edges together (lines 7 to 9 and 8 to 10), Fig. 35, so they lap one inch. 
Have them so the arm-hole continues smoothly at the top. Mark around 
the outer edge and the gore at the elbow. 

For a short sleeve, cut off 3 or 4 inches below the elbow, 

Remember, in putting the sleeve in, that the highest point of the sleeve goes 
to the highest part of the arm-hole. 

Remember that half inch seams are included in these drafts. 

Jiemember that coat sleeves do not curve quite as nntch as basque sleeves. 

Remember that the following instructions enable you to make a sleeve with 
any curve desired, by simply changing the diitance from 13 to 12, 

These wraps are cut in a variety of styles and shapes, but are all made 
on the following simple plan, The front and back of the basque are placed 
so as to form the shoulder seam and give the goods required over the arm 
"J Set the maohine as you would for a basque, increase the neck and width 
of the back each one size and the neck of the front one size, make the 
shoulder of the front the same length as the shoulder of the back. 

Place the edge of the front of the machine back 3 inches from the edge 
of the goods and nine inches from the top, as shown by distance A O, 
Fig. 37. 

F J R 




The Dolman. 43 



Next place the back so the seam lines of the shoulders of the front and 
back come together at the arm-hole at D Fig. 37. With this point as a 
pivot move the back, until the center line F K has the direction required. 
The angle here given to the line F K gives you the medium amount of 
fullness in skirt. If it is moved to the dotted line / J, which is nearly a 
full bias, it will give less goods and make a close fitting skirt. To make a 
close or loose hanging garment, simply change the position of the center 
line of the back. 

To get the length, measure the front or back which ever you have, then 
draw a line straight in from JS or K the distance P is from the center line 
of the front or back. Next place the end of the tape at the center of the 
shoulder gore at P and make a sweep from X to Zi for lower edge. 

When you want the seam on top of the shoulder add one and a half inches 
(not sizes) to the arm-hole of the back, that is raise the shoulder seam at 
this point that amount. And take off the arm-hole in the front the same 
amount added to the arm-hole of the back, as shown in Fig. 38. The shoul- 
der lines come together then at X in place of D as in Fig. 37. The back 
and front are placed the same, and the skirt made the same. 

Side seams can be used in place op the one down the centre of the 

BACK. 

When this is desired the pattern is made the same as Fig. 38, but the 
goods are folded on the center line of the back and the shoulder seam con- 
tinued over the shoulder straight down to the bottom. 

To have two shoulder gores, simply have a strip of goods one and a 
half inch wide in the center line of the back and the large gore from P to 
X as shown in Fig. 38. This gives you two small gore9 C X P an i P D 
F, you must allow for seams. 

These illustrations will give you the general plan, and a little practice 
will enable you to follow any fashion. 

Has a variety of styles and can be produced in several ways. The simp- 
lest, and perhaps the best, plan is to set the machine according to the reg- 
ular basque measure, increase the neck one size and draft the front and 
back, then change these, as required to suit the different styles and add the 
sleeve to suit the fashion. 
To assist in making these changes it is well to have the following 

Test Measures. 

1st Measure. — With the arm bent at a right angle, and the hand resting 
upon the pit of the stomach with the arm in an easy position at the side, 
measure from the center of the back, at the height of elbow around over 
the arm to the little bone at the wrist ; add two inches for seams and com- 
fort. 

2d Measure. — Measure from the center of the back from "a point six 
inches below the neck straight around over the arm to the arm-hole seam 
in front. Add two inches for seams and comfort. 



44 



Drafting Front. 



Draft the Front as Folloivs. 

Set the machine according to the regular measure. Increase the neck 
one size. 

Place the edge of the machine even with the edge of the goods and have 
the waist line above the lower edge the required length of skirt. Then 
mark the fold line, neck, shoulder, arm-hole, underarm seam and waist line. 
Do not mark the darts, but dot at the underarm seam at the waist line. 

Extend the fold line down below the waist, as shown in Fig. 39, to the 
length desired. 

Take half the full hip measure, and apply it across the skirt six incites 
below the waist line, from Z on the fold line to Z on line F G. Add one 
inch to complete the length ; that is, u-:e \ the hip measure plus one inch. 
Thus, if the hip measure is 42, the £ is 2], to which add one inch, we then 
have 22 inches, the length required from Z to Z. 

Have the line F G spring to the right at the rale of two inches for each 
six inches it is continued below Z ; thus if G is 12 inches below Z, then the 
line Z? G will extend 4 inches further to the right lhan the line Z Z. When 
the Dolman is very long, 1 inch will be spring enough in 6. 

The width of the skirt of the front as here given is based on the usual 
width of the skirt of the back, which is 4 inches wide at G inches below the 
waist line from Z to Z, Fig. 40. Just as much as the width of the back at 
this point exceeds 4 inches, you will deduct that amount from the width of 
the skirt in front on line Z Z, making it that much narrower. 




B D 

Fig. 39. 

To finish the front we cut away that part or portion of the front not re- 
quired for the Dolman. Begin at the shoulder at C, Fig. 39, at half inch 
inside the arm-hole and continue that distance inside the arm-hole on down 
to H, which is a little above the lower part of the arm-hole. From II 
spring back to the right and cross the waist line three inches to the right 
of the underarm seam, and extend it to F, 2 inches above Z. When a 
lower cut is desired, strike F below Z by crossing the waist line near the 
under-arm seam in place of the right as shown in Fig. 39. 



The Back. 



45 



The Back. 

Place the back on the paper so there will be room to add the sleeve at 
the left. Then mark all the back except the arm-hole and circles. Then 
dot these on the sewing lines as shown in Fig. 40. Next dot ot K on the 
shoulder half inch from the arm-hole and at P, 1^ inches inside of L, the 
sewing line of the arm-hole, and at N, the point where the curved line cros- 
ses the circles about § of the distance on the circle from the waist up, also 
at O, at the waist, which is 2 inches to the left of M, the width of the back 
at the waist line. 

Draw the curved line from K, through JP and A' to G. See that this 
line has a graceful curve. Extend the skirt on down, the length desired, 
keeping 1^ inches to the left of the regular basque skirt, inches below the 
waist line at Z and on to O O. This line curves slightly from the waist 
to the bottom. Finish the back by drawing a line across the bottom of the 
skirt as shown in Fig. 40. 

How to Get the Quantity of Goods Bequired. 

This table gives the quantity of material required to make the following 
garments, medium sizes, for different width of goods. 

The figures on the lines opposite the name of garment, is the number of 
yards required to make it. At the top of each column is marked the width 
of the goods. So to get the quantity of material for different widths you 
have only to look in the different columns. 

To use the table find the style of garment in the first column, go out to 
the right to the column marked with the width of goods you want and there 
\i the amount required. 

The table is based on 36 inches bust measure, and medium figure, and 
will be near enough right to be used for 34, 36, 38 without change. When, 
however, there is much deviation in size from the 36 bust, you can add or 
take off a little as your judgment suggests. 

The Sleeve. 

After drafting the back as just described, and shown in Fig. 41, take a 
plain basque sleeve to suit the arm size and place the top of the back seam 




Fig. 41 



46 Dogmas, 

at L, the arm hole of the back, Fig. 41, and stick a pin at this point. Then 
with this point as a pivot move the sleeve so the curve of the arm-hole of 
the sleeve joins the curve of the arm-hole of the back at R, on the 
dotted line. 

With the sleeve in this position, dot all around it. Then stick a pen at 
S, the elbow of the inside curve of the sleeve, and take the one at Tj out 
and using the pin at S, as a pivot move that part of the sleeve at the 
wrist up to T, locating T at about the same height as £, this will make 
the forepart of the sleeve nearly straight out. Then mark from T to S, 
and continue toward V, to within 3 inches thereof, keeping a slight curve 
at S. From this point continue the curve on to K, keeping inside of V, 
about 1 inch, and outside of X, i inch. That is, we take off the point at V 
and extend the curve at X beyond the regular sleeve curve ■£ inch, or as 
much as we shortened the shoulder at E". In other words, we must add 10 
the sleeve at this point as much as we take off at the shoulder. 

That part of the sleeve which joins the back has the same curve as the 
back from K, through P to N, from which point the sleeve continues on 
down in a straight line to Z, 6 inches below the waist line, and then on to 
TJ the length desired. It generally continues on down the back to a point 
2 inches below where the skirt of the front joins the back. The shape of 
the sleeve from T to TJ varies according to fashion. Sometimes it is a 
regular curve from Tto TJ, at others it is carried straight down from T 
and straight across from TJ. 

The under part of this sleeve is the same from T to &. From S it can 
be a regular curve to TJ, the same as the curve of the front from H to If, 
Fig. 39. 

In sew ing in the sleeve, the highest point of the sleeve goes to the highest 
point of the arm-hole. This brings point S of the sleeve near point IX on 
the fron t. 

From H to F on the front, Fig. 39, and from S to TJ on the under part 
of the sleeve, Fig. 41, are sewed together, and a piece of tape stitched over 
the seam. 

The under part of the sleeve need not extend all the way from S to TJ. 
It can stop ^ of the way if desired. The lower edge of the under piece is 
the same as the lower edge of the outside piece, and completes the sleeve 
as shown in Fig. 41. The lower edge of this sleeve is open. 

Apply the test measures first from the center of the back to T, and then 
ihe second measure from the center of the back through R to a point a 
little above S. This completes the open sleeve. 

When you desire a sleeve closed along the lower edge. . 

The front and back are drafted just the same, and the sleeve is made the 
same, but is shaped differently at the bottom, as is seen in Fig. 42. Draw 
a line straight out to the left from TJ to Y, the lower edge of the sleeve, 
and a line straight down from T to Y, this gives the lower edge of the 
outside piece. To get the under part of the sleeve fold the paper on 
line YZ across the bottom, shape the end from Y to T, and T to S the 
same as the outside curve ; from S to TJ curve the same as the front. This 
makes the sleeve all in one piece as the goods are folded on the lower edge 
thus saving the seam there. The test measure can be applied the same 
as before. 

This is the favorite sleeve. It can be left full size at the hand or gathered, 
as fashion requires. 



Amount of Goods Required for Different Garments. 



47 



TO HAVE THE BACK AND SLEEVE ALL IN ONE PIECE. 

Make the front the same as before shown. Fig. 39, and described on 
page 44. 

Make the back the same as before shown, Fig. 40, and described on 
page 44. 




Fig. 42. 

The sleeve is added just the same way but the back and sleeve are cut 
all in one piece, that is the seam joining the sleeve to the back is done 
away with. 

Cat the sleeve to suit the fashion. The closed sleeve just described 
and shown in Fig. 42 is very suitable for this 6tyle of back and sleeve 
in one. 

These samples will serve to give you a good idea of the Dolman, but to 
master it will require some practice as it is considered by some the most 
difficult garment to make. 



SOW TO tfltfi) ¥Sl{ QUSXTlTY OF" JvI^T^lSL, IK 8 jMSD'E, 

UP C^MS^T. 

Find the number of square inches in each piece of the garment and add 
them together. This will give the number of square inches ; to get the 
number of yards, divide this amount by the number of square inches in a 
yard of goods the width you require. 

To do this, take the average width and length of each piece in inches 
Multiply them together and you will get the square inches in each piece. 
Add the inches in the several pieces together. 

When you measure plaits, folds or ruffles made up, take three times the 
square inches they contain, as they will require three times the amount of 
goods to make them up. 



Amount of Goods Required for Different Garments. 



In reducing the total amount of square inches to yards, always multiply 
36 inches by the width of the goods. If the material is 20 inches wide you 
have 36x20 — 720 in each yard. And if the whole number of inches were 
10,800, by dividing that by 720, gives 15 yards ; one yard in every 10 is 
added for loss, which added to 15, makes 164 yards of 20 inch goods, You 
can make a very close measure with a little care. 



8M0UN¥ Of mS*^iSi< tfof( ©r^f^X^ G(8fOT>TYg. 



DIFFEHKNT WIDTH OP ROODS IN INCHES. 



STYLE OF GARMENT. 

Belt Waist... 

Sack " 

Basque with 9 in skirt. 

12 " 

Polonaise, short .. 

" medium.. .. 

Princess Wrapper with 6 in train 
u « a ta << 

A Princess with full train 

Coat, medium - 

" long double breasted 

Cape or Wrap, short 

Wrap, medium 

Cloak or Long Wrap 

Dolman, short . 

" medium 

" long 

Suit, plain 

" medium 

" fancy 

Skirt, plain 

" fancy .-.._■. 

Overskirt 

Sleeve, plain 

" fancy 



IS 
Yds. 

H 

5 

61 

S4 

«4 

121 

151 

195 

5* 

6f 

3 

H 

5 

51 

61 

14f 

m 

19s- 

04 

121 

H 

21 



20 



I 



Yds. 

21 

51 
71 

81 
11 
13| 

l'l 
5 

6 

o* 

-T 

H 

n 

5 

51 
131 
154 

m 

81 

n 

61 
H 
21 



Yds. 
2 
4 
5 

51 

7 

8 

10 

124 

16 
44 
51 
2 * 
5 
7 
4 

4| 

5 
12 
14 
16 

8 
10 

6 

1 

2 



Yds 
If 

n 
n 
41 

64 
8* 
01 
I'l 
14| 
4 
4£ 
21 

n 

31 

4 

ii 

14| 

H 

81 
51 

1 
n 



27 



Yds. 
H 

H 

4 
41 



ne 48 



Yds 
il 

24 
3 

H 

41 



6* 


41 


8 


6 


10+ 


n 


13 


01 


n 


n 


44 


n 


2 


n 


4 


3 


53 


41 


31 


21 


31 


3 


4 


3 


01 


71 


I'l 


84 


13 


01 


61 


41 


S 





5 


31- 


1 


2 

Tr 


H 


11 



Yds. 

i 

il 

21 

21 
31 
8* 

44 

5| 



21 

u 

21 
Si- 
ll 
21 
21 
51 
64 
71 
31 
44 

H 
1 



Girls and Misses. 

A girl of 7 years of age, requires 

F.or plain costume . . - . 4 yards of 22 inch goods. 

" fancy " 71 " " 

• " cloak " 3 " " " 

A miss 14 years of age, requires 

For Ulster 24 yards of goods 48 inch. 

" medium costume 8 '• " 22 " 

" fancy " 10 " " 22 " 

Plaiting, ruffling and shirring, as a rule, require three times the length 
you desire them to be when finished. In other words three times the 
quantity of yards as when made plain. 



INDEX. 



Amount of goods required for different garments 
Art of dressing 



Back of Machine, How to arrange 

" for a Waist, How to draft - 

" " "Basque," " " - .' 

" " Outside Garments 

" " Princess - 

'' " Polonaise. .- 

" " Coat, tight-fitting 

•| " ;' j£or# tight. '... 

tight -fitting with cross skirt 

" " Sacque,^ or ^ tight ...". 

" " French Basque 

" " Coat 

with three seams or four pieces - -.--- 

" five seams or six pieces 

curves and shoulder seams (combination) 

" How to widen at the waist 

" " raise the shoulder-seam .- 

" "fit shoulders which drop to the front 

" " extend below the belt in the cen'er of the b^.ck. 

Basque plain 

% tight ; 

" 3/ '• 



plaited, shirred or gathered, 
low neck 



Basting 



Coats 

Collars.. .... 

Circulars and Capes 

Changes for outside garments 

Cross Skirts 

Cutting and Fitting 



Darts, how to get the size of .. 

" " arrange the tops of 

" draft in any position 

" " " get the height of.. ..-. 

" " " " hip dart 

" " " " space between 1st and 2d 

" " shape and finish.. - 

|J <; "use. 

" " make hip dart any size. - - 

Dolmans : 43 

Front of machine, How to arrange 

" " " for Waist, How to draft •-.. 

" " " " Basque, " " " 

" " with two darts tight 

" " " " " " " " loose 

;" " " "' " seam to shoulder... 

" Bias cut underarm se im 



Page 

48 

1 

11 
12 
12 
33 
29 
31 
35 
37 
30 
23 
25 
35 
24 
24 
24 
15 
18 
20 
17 
15 
17 
17 
27 
27 
1 

33 
37 
42 
33 
36 
1 

18 
IS 
18 
18 
27 
20 
18 
18 
28 
44 

14 
lfl 

15 
22 
16 
22 
20 



Index 

Page 

Front of machine for French Basque 26 

" " " " Princess 28 

" " " " Polonaise 27 

" " " Coat, tight-fitting with cross skirt 36 

" double breasted „ 21 

" with long skirt ,.., 21 

" of Coats or Paletot }& or % tight..... ' 33 

" Howtowiden 19 

" for open back ". 22 

" How to change the slope of shoulder 18 

" line, How to curve... 19 

Fullness back of Arm, How to get clear of 18 

Explanations and Changes 17 

Hints on Dressmaking , 1 

Hip Dart, How to lease cut , ., 19 

Hip Dart, How to make any size 5 9 

Jackets, French 35 

Linings, How to cut... 2 

Low necks, How to make 27 

Linen Dusters 27 

Measures, How taken 2 

" " " for outside garments 33 

" when wrong, The results 8 

" for practise 10 

Outside Garments 33 

Plaits in the seams below the waist, How to add 27 

Princess : — — 27 

Polonaise 31 

Quantity of Material, How to find 48 

" " " " " " in made up garments 48 

Sacques 15 & 18 

Sacque back 24 

Sleeve, How to draft 38 & 40 

" Various kinds 40 

Skirt, plain or gored 81 

Skirt Rule and table for Basques, etc 17 

" " " " " Princess, Ulsters, etc 27 

Side Body of Machine, How to arrange 12 

" " " " " " draft a Waist _ 13 

" " " " " " " Basque 13 

" " with seams to the shoulder 28 

" " of Princess, etc 30 

" " '-Polonaise 31 

'• " " Coat, tight -fitting _ 36 

" " " " }4 or % tight 35 

" " How to draft when the shoulders drop to the front 19 

Slope of Shoulder, How to change for front 18 

" " " back 23 

Trains 29 

The under Armpiece, How to set 13 

" " " "draft 14 

Ulsters 32 

Wrinkles, How to keep out 1 

Waists 15 & 29 

Waists, Long or short 8 

Waists, Plaited, Gathered or shirred 27 

Water Proofs 27 

Yokes 27 



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